How would you go about cutting slots in walnut for inlay if 1mm wide brass strips.
Would you use a router or saw?
Ins there a 1mm router bit or saw blade?
Router plane?
How would you go about cutting slots in walnut for inlay if 1mm wide brass strips.
Would you use a router or saw?
Ins there a 1mm router bit or saw blade?
Router plane?
A shop made wooden scribe fitted with a shop made steel cutter that is back beveled on both sides and bottom.
Yes, there are 1mm router bits available, but they are generally more pointed at the CNC side of things rather than hand-held work. They could be used with a small trim router as long as you can accommodate an appropriate chuck for the cutter. Amana, for example has a 1mm flat bottom end mill with a 1/8" shank available. You'd need either a 1/8" collet for your router or a 1/8" collet bushing for a 1/4" collet to use this bit. But you may find this fine of a bit pretty tricky to use with a hand-held machine...they are touchy even with a carefully controlled CNC machine.
A router plane might be the better choice if you can come up with the right combination to to the job.
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
1 mm = .03937". Lee Valley offers a 0.040" down cut spiral bit for a dremel. They also have a 0.040" groove cutter for inlay.
-- Jim
Use the right tool for the job.
A string inlay tool would normally be the way to cut such narrow grooves.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/pag...=1,43314,69873
+1 on what Peter said.
It pretty easy that way.
Jim
I use carbide end mills that are discarded from the electronics industry for all my inlay work-- they are cheap on ebay and have plenty of life left in them for cutting wood. They range from 3-4mm and smaller. I'd use a bit about 3/4 the width of the cut I want and make the groove in two passes, running the router base against a straightedge or curved template for an exact fit and clean edges on both sides.
I have a small router base from Stewart-Macdonald that holds the handpiece of my Foredom tool.
So far I have utterly failed mastering getting a clean-edged groove with a scratch stock or similar tool. Haven't tried the Lee Valley one yet.