Muddy bootprint on raw wood glu-lam

[Denise Ohio]

I admit I've been ignoring this, but it's time for me to find a good way to remove the mud and crud that got on the glu-lam we want to leave exposed. I'm going to get the scaffolding over there and try just seeing what will come up with some brushing. Then I was going to try some blue painter's tape to lift off some of the crap.

But I don't feel confident this is really going to work. Anyone have any idea what I can use on the raw side of a glu-lam?

Oh, and suggestions for finish---I'mt hinking something simple, like BLO or true teak oil---the glu-lam crosses near the kitchen and I'd like a little protection.

Thanks, as always. You all are invaluable.

[Ray Bersch]

I have used these in several applications and getting them clean is generally not much different than cleaning up any other wood product. Cleaning with brush and some water or scraping or sanding to get to clean wood should do. I suspect this beam will be high where minor blotches and stains may well blend in with knots and other imperfections of the wood. I would not hesitate to judiciously apply a belt sander to the most offending areas, just don't allow yourself to create hollows or shallow spots that can be seen when finished. By the way, I assume you did mean the Doug Fir glulam, not the LVL which is Southern Yellow Pine. SYP has a lot of both soft grain and hard grain which is difficult to sand and finish.

If you have a construction grade beam, you may be in for a lot of finishing work to make this look nice. There are better grades for use when the beam will be exposed and you can even get them pre-finished.

If you are going to stain or tint, I would treat this like any other soft wood and seal the surface, especially the end grains, so as to assure a more even look to the final product. Ultimately, a darker stain may be your best bet if this beam was really abused. And, I would even consider a hard finish rather than the oils which tend to collect dust in the open grain.

Your mention of scaffolding implies an installed product - have fun up there!

[Howard Acheson]

Depending what was on the boot, getting the stain off may be difficult. I would start with a good, strong cleaner like TSP. Then, you may have to use a wood cleaner or teak cleaner and a scrub brush. In the final analysis, you may not be able to remove it.

How about cutting a board and attaching it to the beam?

Now, I would not recommend linseed oil. It provides no water or watervapor protection nor does it have any durability. It will also continue to get more yellow over time and any cooking grease will be absorbed.

I would use an oil/varnish mixture. Make it up yourself by mixing equal parts of varnish or poly varnish, linseed oil and mineral spirits. Apply, let soak in for 15-30 minutes and wipe dry. Next day, do it again. You will end up with virtually the same look as linseed oil but the varnish provides much more long lasting protection. BTW, there is no such thing as "true teak oil". Most are just an oil/varnish mixture like I suggested above.

[Denise Ohio]

But the homemade varnish idea is a good one.

And yes, Doug fir glu lam already installed, so I'll be up on the scaffolding for any fixes. 32 feet---it's pretty. We chose a grade that would look better and it does. I should've had the boom guy flip it around before we installed, but I wasn't thinking.

Stupid me.

Thirty-two feet long, but the ends are hidden, and the rest is revealed. The boot print looks like mud, like someone stepped on it and then tried to wipe it off, so it's smeared.

Well, next week, I'll give it a go, then. I have a feeling I'm going to be sanding.

A lot.

Dang it.

Thanks again.