I plan to buy a 4" Double Square. Currently the Starrett and LV squares are the selling at the same price. Which one would do you like or recommend??
Thanks Ed
I plan to buy a 4" Double Square. Currently the Starrett and LV squares are the selling at the same price. Which one would do you like or recommend??
Thanks Ed
As a follow-up question, I just purchased the LV 4" double square and it's a beautiful tool, but alas not square! I checked it against two engineer's squares. How "square" are these supposed to be and are they always prone to maybe being a little off given that the blade does move? Would the Starrett be any different?
Thanks.
Kevin
I would return it to Lee Valley, I am sure they will do whatever it takes to ensure you are happy.
Another vote to return. I had a set of rulers and one was off 1/32" per 18". Quick and easy swap with LV, all is well. It happens, don't live with it.
As to the OP, I would have to hold them in my hand. I have the Woodcraft twin of the USA product LV sells. It is quite nice for the price. I did put a touch-up where the lock-knob rests so it would loosen without binding against the finish. If the Starrett "felt" better I would lean that way but we have had plenty of posts about Starrett that echo Kevin's experience with LV; my point is that the name doesn't always make the difference.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
I have a few rulers , a combo square, a center finder and inclinometer from starrett, all are great tools. Square, straight, flat, beautifully machined. Its as if QA does their job. The mechanicals on the starrett combo squares are the best; smooth, accurate, flawless. Little competition from other vendors except on price. The inclinometer is a 40 year old tag sale purchase, still works wonderfully, fits all my combo square rules perfectly.
You may get an acceptable tool from another vendor, I'm sure they have something closer to square than you received. I know many good wood workers that do great work with low budget import combo squares and refuse to spend the money on a starrett. But if you go with a Starett, you won't have to worry about it, it will be square, it will be straight, and it will stay that way barring any misuse on your part.
When I bought mine I checked out several other options, none had the feel and finish of a starrett.
I bought one from LV that wasn't square as well. Returned it and got one that was.
I brought my Starrett square with me to check it.
Maybe that answers your question.
Cheers Shawn.
I have a cheap double square I bought for less than $10 at HD years ago. It's as square as my pricey incra square. I've used it on nearly every project I've made since I got it. Any errors were my fault, not the squares fault. You can get good squares for cheap, you just need to verify that they are square when you get them.
The only exception is combo squares, the movement on the better ones is consistent, the cheap ones are not. A good combo square is pleasant to use, a bad one is irritating.
Here is something to keep in mind about squares.
No matter how much you spend for a device, you still don't know if it is square. I ran a large tool and die shop and we purchased a number of Brown & Sharp and Starrett devices and some of them were not "square". We had "standards" that our quality department periodically had validated by an outside service that we then used to verify the worker's tools.
One day, one of our designers brought in two plastic drawing triangles he had purchased at a local art supply store. He had them compared to our standards and they were as accurate as the tools could measure. The triangles cost a couple of dollars each. They would certainly serve very well as the "standard" in any woodworking shop to validate and/or adjust other devices.
An excellent way to validate the accuracy of the plastic squares is to use two squares on a flat surface. Get a $10-12 plastic 30-60-90 drafting square. To prove it's exactly 90°, take two to a glass counter, put the shorter legs on the counter and face the longer legs away from each other and butt them together (like a teepee). If the legs exactly butt, you can assume you have two perfect 90° angles. Using one of the plastic squares, do the same thing using your other tools. Any that mismatch, means that the tool is not square. You can also take the plastic square with you whenever you go to purchase another tool. Keep your "standard" somewhere where it doesn't get banged up.
Finally, remember that the wood you are using will expand and contract a couple of thousands from one day to the other. Does't pay to get too uptight.
While we are at it, I also only purchase the cheapest of adjustable squares. I square them with a drafting triangle and an auger file until they are square across 10". And I own a Bridge City square that isn't that accurate. Stainless steel machinist's squares are only square until you drop them. I have had several over the years and each has found a away to drop to the floor.
The key is to NEVER use your best square on for day to day measuring. Use it only as a reference tool to verify your other day to day tools.
In a comparison test reported in Fine Woodworking Magazine a couple of years ago, the Stanley #46-123 square was awarded the best value. It's much less expensive than a Starrett and just as accurate.
Howie.........
You might also want to check where your proposed Starrett square is being made, that might have some impact on your decision as well.
www.josephfusco.org
China??? Bite your tongue! Starrett are still made in Athol Ma. which is one reason why I buy their tools. As good a quality if not better than anyone else, and locally made. Don't know where the LV are made so can't comment on them.
As long as it's square it really doesn't matter who's name is on it. I like Starrett but I also have several other brands of squares floating around.
JeffD
Ed,
What is your source of the Starrett for the same price as Lee Valley?
Brian
Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!
Starrett tools have been in machinist’s tool boxes for decades.
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