Question for Tung Oil Users

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Hi Jim, nice bowl, did you try to polish and buff ??, I suppose you don't want to use the bowl as a salad bowl ??, if you do it will always be a flat finish when oiled.
However if you want it more shiny, you will have to use the polymerized tung oil, and if your oil is dry now, you can coat with polymerized tung oil, don't take too long,as it does set up in about 5 minutes, (depending a bit, temp, humidity) use a very fine steelwool or synthetic steelwool, let dry and a couple more coats should do, you still can polish after that and buff, but make sure the oil is hard, so wait a week or better before polishing.

No I don't use anything over my tung oil, except some wax occasionally, I do polish and buff if I like a shiny finish.

[Greg Savage]

Add a bit of Japan Drier to pure tung oil to speed up the curing process.

Waterlox is a great tung oil based finish. Apply several diluted coats and then a few full strength....a little steel wool and a buff.....and you're done! This is what I use on my high end stuff.


Here is a table that I just finished with a Tazmanian Eucalyptus Burl top using Waterlox as the finish. The second photo has nothing to do with the top of the table, but it looks really cool!

[Jess Wetherhold]

Not super pics but these were all finished with tung oil (Minwax from HD.)
It only takes 3-4 coats for me to build this up. Great finish in my opinion.
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[Jeff Langdell]

Great bowls by both Jim and Leo!
It is true that most "Tung oil finishes" are simply oil-varnish mixes and many do not even contain Tung. I like the way real Tung oil brings out the grain and gives the piece some depth. So I use "Masters Blend 100% Tung oil". I apply it with a rag or 600-grit paper while still on the lathe. The heat and wood flour create a nice glaze. When I want more shine, I apply wax while still on the lathe. But then, I'm lazy.

[Skip Spaulding]

I have good luck with Minwax tung oil when used on tight grain wood sanded 400 plus grit but still need 4 or more coats to get a good shine.

[Allen Neighbors]

Years ago, a well-applied tung oil finish on a piece of furniture meant that it would withstand a lot of abuse, and still be a nice finish. That is why Tung Oil has that 'aura' about it to a lot of people. It is a wonderful finish.
There is a big difference in Tung Oil Finish, and 100% Tung Oil, and Polymerized Tung Oil.
Tung Oil Finish, depending on the manufacturer, may or may not have tung oil in it. It may have about 5 or 10 % tung oil, but it's mostly a mixture of varnish and linseed.
Polymerized Tung Oil is almost a misnomer to a woodworker; not really, but almost. Without getting into technicalities, polymerizing is the joining together of two different moleculess, to make a better molecule. That's basically it. Polymerizing has become a word recognized in the wood-working world as meaning it sets up and becomes harder when cured. I'm sure that Polymerized Tung Oil has some tung oil in it, but I don't think its 100%, else where did they get the different molecule? And it may actually be harder than 100% Tung Oil; but I think just having Tung Oil in the ingredients list helps to sell a product.
100% Tung Oil is just that. Nothing added. It's hard to find. And will turn to gel in the can if too old and not kept air tight, in a container without airspace.
Applying 100% Tung Oil to a piece is easy; but to get a really good tung oil finish, is not. It requires patience and elbow grease. You should apply a very liquid (wet) coat, keeping it wet, for at least 15 minutes, so it has time to penetrate the wood fibers as much as it can. Then wipe off the excess. Then rub the tung oil into the surface, with a soft cloth or bare hand (which is also suggested for a boiled linseed oil finish) which helps the surface molecules to bond together. Then you can let that set for a few hours, and then do it all again. Repeating this process for three or four times, will get you a finish that looks a lot like those on Jim's and Leo's Bowls. You can buff lightly with 0000 steel wool between coats if you like. Doing all this on the lathe makes it easier. Then let that cure, usually for a week or more. Finally, buffing with Tripoli, White Diamond, then Carnauba, will put a nice shine on the surface. But the Tung Oil applied like this will be a harder, more mar-resistant finish than you can get with lacquer or ordinary varnishes. It's just a pain to apply it correctly. I might add, this is not the only way to apply it... it's just my way. Putting this finish on the outside of utility bowls makes a lasting beautiful finish... and it's food safe when cured... If you do this finish to the inside of a utility bowl, don't expect it to last there.
I hope I don't come over like a smart aleck... I just wanted to help others understand some of the misunderstandings about finishes containing the words Tung and Oil. I think it's the best finish you can put on a piece of wood.

[Jim Evans]

I hope I don't come over like a smart aleck... I just wanted to help others understand some of the misunderstandings about finishes containing the words Tung and Oil. I think it's the best finish you can put on a piece of wood.

Not smart aleck to me - Allen - what you've written is good information. I will have to give pure tung oil another try. I'm still trying all types of finishes to see what I like.

thanks for the help.