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Thread: Craftsman Rip Fence alignment

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Burlington, Wisconsin
    Posts
    25

    Craftsman Rip Fence alignment

    Having a problem aligning my Craftsman Rip Fence the miter slot of my Craftsman Table Saw. The saw is about 4 years old ( bought it new). Model number 315.228390, Rip fence model number is 315.22830. I have tried aligning with a dial indicator but could not bring it in. Also, are there any suggestions for a replacement fence for this saw that would achieve accurate cuts? Thanks, Larry

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Mid Michigan
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    3,559
    I had major problems with my old Craftsman rip fence. The lock mechanism broke and I rigged a new set up so I could use it. The fence never would align with out doing several measurements, adjustments and a few taps with a block of wood. Finally I gave up and purchased an aftermarket fence that has worked great for the past 12 or so years. Got it form Sears and paid around $150 for it. Do not know the manufacturer.
    I think a lot of the after market fences will fit the Craftsman.
    David B

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
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    I tossed my original Craftsman fence after putting up with it for years. Mine is an older model than yours by about 20 years. I put on a Biesmeyer 34" commercial fence and have no regrets at all. . The fence installs quickly. I think I had to drill two holes. Best of all is the repeatability and accuracy right out of the box.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  4. #4
    I have a nine year old craftsman and I have to measure both ends before I cut. It just won't align properly. The other issue is the arbor on many of the craftsman are not the same diameter across their length, thus dado sets don't lineup correctly without futzing around and using plumbers weld to build up the arbor thickness.

    If I keep the say, I think I will eventually replace the fence.

    Mike

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Burlington, Wisconsin
    Posts
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    Thanks for the help and advice! I am thinking about a Biesmeyer fence for the Craftsman saw. What do they cost and where is the best place to purchase one?

    Thanks,

    Larry

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    I tossed my original Craftsman fence after putting up with it for years. Mine is an older model than yours by about 20 years. I put on a Biesmeyer 34" commercial fence and have no regrets at all. . The fence installs quickly. I think I had to drill two holes. Best of all is the repeatability and accuracy right out of the box.
    Lee,

    I think you have added a steel plate to accomodate your Grip-Tites, no? Any words of advice? I did the same, but ran into problems. Have corrected them to a degree, but I would be interested in hearing what you did.

    Art

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    2,787
    I had the same issues with my Craftsman CS fence. Using it was just an exercise in futility. Since the fence doesn't even weigh enough to be a boat anchor, it has no real use.

    I opted for the MuleCab Accusquare fence, which works quite well. Of course, you can't go wrong with a Bies, but I don't think those were readily adaptable for my saw. Perhaps a Bies will work for your saw since it's much newer than mine.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Burlington, Wisconsin
    Posts
    25

    Delta T2 Fence

    I went ahead and purchased a T2 at Lowes for a sale price of $135.00 today. When I got it home I discovered that none of the holes matched up (frond and back rails). I was expecting that some of the holes would not match up, but not all. Now I have to figure out how to get everything aligned and the holes drilled. I don't know how far to align the top of the angle iron in relation to the table top (1 half thick. is this starndard?) or where the the end of the angle iron has to be in relation to the left end of the saw extension. Could really use some advice on this because i don't want to make a mistake on the holes. Also, how much space should there be under the fence to the saw table. If this were a Delta saw, of course there would be no problem!

    Larry

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Ventura, CA
    Posts
    530
    Lee-

    I'm headed down the same path -- fitting a nicer fence to my mid-sixties Craftsman contractor saw.

    What was involved with fitting the Bies to your saw? Any thoughts you care to share about that process would be very much appreciated.

    Thanks in advance.

    -Tom H.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Ventura, CA
    Posts
    530
    Hi Larry-

    Any progress on fitting the T2 to your saw? I'm hoping to add a decent fence to my Craftsman CS and am hoping to learn what I can from you folks that have already gone down that path...

    Thanks in advance.

    -Tom H.
    Ventura, CA

  11. #11
    I gota Sears TS , rarely have alignment problems with the fence.
    Would like a longer one but have no room , unless they make a detchable one!

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Art Davis View Post
    Lee,

    I think you have added a steel plate to accomodate your Grip-Tites, no? Any words of advice? I did the same, but ran into problems. Have corrected them to a degree, but I would be interested in hearing what you did.

    Art
    Yes the steel plate is for the grip tites which are a great investment for feather boards. I love them and use them all the time. My website Lee's Websitehas additional photos of the fence cover and steel plate. It was part of a special package at a woodshow. Since the grip tites don't need to go all the way down to the table when mounted on the fence, The steel plate is mounted on the surface of the 3/4" board/ I ripped a thin strip the thickness of the steel and glued it under the steel. I covered that with a piece of UHMW adhesive tape so pieces slide easily and the wood won't wear. The surface of the tape and steel plate are exactly even. The strip I ripped was thicker than the steel when I glued it on. I ran the board through my planer trimming only the width of the strip until it was the right height to match the steel with the tape added to it.

    Shoot me a private message if you have more questions.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Grand Rapids, MN
    Posts
    206
    I'm in the same boat as you guys, looking for a replacement fence for a Craftsman. I like the Beis, but the price was holding me back. I ran across a brand called Vega which seems to get good reveiws here and on Amazon, and the price is a lot more pleasing, check it out.

  14. #14
    I have a 20 year old Craftsman TS and upgraded with a Vega fence about 7-8 years ago.Works great!

  15. #15
    I had a vega on my old craftsman......it worked super. I see them on eBay fairly often...new ones.

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