Buffing Arm-R-Seal

[Jeremy Freeman]

I have been finishing some game calls with a couple of coats of Waterlox followed by 3 coats of Arm-r-seal. The can says not to buff it but I always seem to end up with a speck of dust or lint in the final coat. I am wondering if anyone has tried buffing arm-r-seal and what the outcome was. I hate to mess up a pretty good finish by buffing it and have to start all over.

[Jim Becker]

There should be no issue buffing Arm-R-Seal. But I'm curious about why you're putting a varnish (Arm-R-Seal) over a varnish (Waterlox)? Why not just use one of them and be done with it? Either will provide you with a very fine finish...and using only one of them will cost you less, too.

[Aaron Cain]

It is OK to buff Arm-R-Seal
I just did it with some wax and steel wool

[Steve Schoene]

I just read the Arm R Seal technical data sheet on line. Boy is it confusing (perhaps confused is the better word.) It begins by, correctly, calling it a varnish. Then it goes into the marketing double speak by saying its oil and urethane penetrates deeply into the wood. At another place it says to apply the stain [sic --its a clear finish not a stain] liberally and after it penetrates wipe with a cloth. And, in the Sheen data it says not applicable. Who ever wrote that is confounding it with the companies Seal A Cell oil/varnish mix, where it must not be allowed to build a film on the surface.

I don't have a can label to read, but I sure don't understand why it would say not to buff.

Personally, I'd stay with Waterlox. At least that company gives the proper instructions with their product. Besides it doesn't have polyurethane. The company also knows that it has a sheen, and comes in Satin, Original/Sealer which is a mellow gloss or semi-gloss, or Gloss. I haven't actually used the Arm-R-Seal product since I have been too put off by their deceptive marketing. (I also don't now use Formby's for the same reason.) Waterlox is not totally innocent with the marketing department rather letting people believe it contains tung oil where it is a varnish which used tung oil as the ingredient that went into the process which made the varnish. But they aren't so blatent about it as General is with its Arm R Seal and do tell you how to apply it correctly.

[Jeremy Freeman]

Jim,

I have been using both for a simple reason. I want the wood to be sealed well to prevent moisture damage to the wood since it will be exposed to the elements. The waterlox is very thin and I seem to get better penetration with it. Other other hand I like a finish with a lot of depth and the arm-r-seal is thick and takes much fewer coats to achieve the depth that I am looking for.

Is it the correct way? I don't know. I am by know means a finishing expert. If anyone has suggestions, I am always open to them.

[Steve Schoene]

You can achieve exactly the same thing by just adding some thinner to Arm R Seal for the first coat.

[Mike Cutler]

I've used a lot of Arm-R-Seal over the past few years. It can be buffed, just give it a few days to completely dry. 24 hours is not enough time.

One product that you may want to consider for future reference is Tru-Oil. It's a gunstock finish. It also is a wiping varnish.