What would you guys use - satin Waterlox or Behlen's Rockhard Tabletop varnish.
What would you guys use - satin Waterlox or Behlen's Rockhard Tabletop varnish.
What kind of table and what will it's usage pattern be?
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
If you are looking for a hard surface, Behlen's Rock hard is your choice, I think. If you are also looking for a "piano finish" or close, be advised rubbing out is a bear. I did two end tables this way, and no finish I ever applied compares with it. I am proud as a peacock when I look at those table tops 4 years and three grandkids later. But for a broad surface that is a different story. I did a large dining table with Fuhrs 355 and rubbed it out with Abrolon, compounds, etc. and it is shiny, but has no where near the scratch resistance Behlen's Rock Hard does.
When I rubbed out the Behlen's it was with elbow grease, felt, pumice, and rottenstone. With the new materials and machine application I learned with the Fuhr's it might be a different story.
Go to homesteadfinishing.com and ask the question there. That will be a definitive answer.
LOL
18th century nut --- Carl
Originally Posted by Jim Becker
This is a kitchen table. 3 feet x 5 feet. no extension. Daily use.
This is the table I've been working on the past couple of months and now it's close to complete.
Behlen's sounds attractive for the scratch resistance. Do you think it could be buffed out with an automotive polishing machine? I've got one of those large flying saucer shaped orbital buffing machines.Originally Posted by Carl Eyman
And this is only for the top surface, the rest has already received Waterlox. The top is last thing to be done since I had to do some work on it to install some inlay.
I think that Carl's comments are very good on this...if you really want something that is "rock hard", than the Behlen's product has a good rep. I will admit that I used the evil polyurethane varnish for our eating table, but generally stick with WB lacquer at this point for most projects that are not purely decorative. But even the poly scratched with daily use...it's called "patina"...Originally Posted by John Piwaron
By automotive polishing machine do you mean one of those $30 Sears jobs ment for buffing off wax with a big bonnet? If so, then no. For the initial rubbing out you need something with a fairly hard backing. Flexnor or Jewitt's books should walk you through the process.Originally Posted by John Piwaron
What I used for rubbing out on the Diningroom table was an Abralon screen with my PC 555 ROS. I believe I had to use an intermediate pad between my hook & loop disc and the screen. Homestead finishing has these. Then I used a disc that resembled mohair (again Homestead) with two different grits of stuff Steinway uses to rub out its pianos, Again Homestead. If I could lay my hand on their catalog, I'd specify exactly what you need. BUT,first I'd suggest you talk to Jeff and make sure this procedure will rubout Behlen's RH. It may be too hard for this procedure. Carl
Last edited by Carl Eyman; 11-28-2003 at 12:31 PM.
18th century nut --- Carl
Originally Posted by Steven Wilson
In this case I mean one of the big $150 jobbies with a thick stiff foam pad about 10" in dia. It's actually made my Waxcoa and appears to be one of their top of the line models.
I'll check out Jeff Jewitt's book.
This may be just what you need for final waxing, but for applying the rubbing compound - I don't think so. Again I say ask Jeff. Carl
18th century nut --- Carl