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Thread: Delta/Rockwell 34-450 Table Saw

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    190

    Delta/Rockwell 34-450 Table Saw

    Hi, I have a question. I'm watching a Delta/Rockwell 34-450 Table Saw in an auction. If one was to pick it up for say $100 (not counting the 6 hour road trip one way) would it be worth it? It has the original 3 PH motor on it and no fence. Also do anyone make a direct replacement single phase motor say 3HP for a reasonable price? Thanks, Jim

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    10,235
    AFAIK that is just a normal unisaw. What fence? A replacement motor will run around 500-600 or more. I was able to mount a regular foot mount NEMA motor. Losing maybe 1/4" of cutting depth. Fairly involved job using 3 or 4" angle iron.
    BilL D

  3. #3
    If it's a Unisaw, the motor uses a mount that is unique to Unisaws. As far as the fence is concerned, there should be a number of aftermarket fences available that would mount fairly easily that would be superior to the factory fence that originally came with the saw. If the top is not flat or in good condition, it could be re-ground. If the raise/lower/tilt mechanisms are not serviceable, parts could be tough to find. Arbor bearings should be relatively easy to replace by a qualified technician. After taking all that into consideration plus the 12 hours of driving, this could be the least expensive or the most expensive $100.00 you ever spent.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Northwest Indiana
    Posts
    1,003
    At 3hp or less, a Variable Frequency Drive (or VFD) could be used to take 240v 1ph to 240v 3ph, at a cost of $200-$250 (more or less). Fence--an Incra would work, an old Uni-fence could be found, i'd also consider a Very Super Cool fence. At $100-$200, definitely worth a shot. Good luck!!

  5. #5
    When Lee Valley tried their hand at magazines, one series of articles was on rebuilding a Unisaw. It went well but it wasn't a screaming deal.

    I joke , I buy tools at a dime on the dollar, but end up paying a quarter on the dollar in parts. Still that's 1/3 new or so and it's better than new.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Rochester, Minn
    Posts
    237
    That is a mid 1970s Unisaw. Mine is from 1943, I put new bearings in the motor and arbor; it will outlast me and likely my kids. (Not terribly hard, and I enjoy that kind of putzing). Setting up a VFD is both simple and hard. Simple- you only do it once, and you can put the switch wherever you want. Hard -- if you get a low priced Chinese one off Amazon, the manual can be absolutely abysmal. I updated the fence from a craigslist ad. Is it better than a new 10" cabinet saw from Grizzly? Probably not, but not worse either.

    As stated above, depending on your skills and interest it could be the most or least expensive $100 you have spent. The owwm.org site (old woodworking machines) is a home for enthusiasts of this equipment, and there is a recent thread about a glut of such equipment near the originator, but it seems to be very local.

    Terry T.

  7. #7
    In my area, you can get a unisaw that is ready to work for $300 without trying very hard.

    I'd hold out for something closer, and more complete.

  8. #8
    I bought a Unisaw at auction years ago. I found a replacement Unisaw specific motor, since these were unique, reground the top, and had the arbor bearings replaced by a machine shop. All in, I was able to sell it for almost what I had into it. I ended up buying a Wadkins Burgreen 10"/12'" single phase brand new. That saw ran 8 hours a day, seven days a week for years while I ran my cabinet and furniture business full time and built a house during the same period. I still use that saw today for dados 40 years later. I had the arbor bearings replaced about 15 years ago, and replaced the belts and magnetic starter about the same time. Otherwise, it's all original, including the motor. (My main saw now is a Sawstop ICS). The point is, the Unisaw would never have performed as well or as long as the Wadkin Bursgreen, which cost not much more than what I sold the Unisaw for. While rebuilding the Unisaw was a valuble educational experience, it would not have been a wise long term investment. I think the OP can do better even if the Unisaw in question ends up costing only $100 initially unless he can find one in exceptional condition that has had very little use and at a very reasonable price.

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