New GE Microwave Over the Stove 15 Inch Cupboard

[Jim Becker]

Our old cupboards were 15 inch (14 1/2) and that is what we replaced with. A 12 inch would never hold all the stuff we have, and bending over to reach the ones below was not an attractive option. GE knows that 15 inch exist so they offered that overkill high priced Bump out kit.

You were fortunate that whomever put those deeper cabinets in did that...and yes, the whole reason I went to deeper at the old property was exactly for the reason you stated: fitting things in the uppers that needed to live there. 12" cabinets (which are only about 10-10.5" "usable" deep, just don't cut it. The fact that GE offers that "overkill high priced bump out kit" just confirms that you should be able to roll your own.

[Lee DeRaud]

I see no issue with you putting a plywood box behind the over-stove microwave as long as you secure it well to the wall so it can handle the weight and hopefully have a way of driving a few fasteners laterally into the cabinets to complete that support.

The older GE I have, has a big U-shaped bracket. The bottom of the U goes against the back wall and has dozens of holes at various spacings to catch the studs; the arms slide into slots in the sides of the microwave and lock it in. There are also two long 1/4"-20 bolts that come down through the bottom of the cabinet above and screw into the front corners of the microwave. As Norm would say, "That's not going anywhere."

[Lee DeRaud]

A 12 inch would never hold all the stuff we have, and bending over to reach the ones below was not an attractive option.

I was vaguely surprised (and pleased) about the 15"-upper thing. That said, things in the back of the higher shelves might as well be on the moon.

I took the all-drawers approach in the lowers: having dishes/pans/etc there is actually much easier on my rapidly aging back.

[Jim Becker]

The older GE I have, has a big U-shaped bracket. The bottom of the U goes against the back wall and has dozens of holes at various spacings to catch the studs; the arms slide into slots in the sides of the microwave and lock it in. There are also two long 1/4"-20 bolts that come down through the bottom of the cabinet above and screw into the front corners of the microwave. As Norm would say, "That's not going anywhere."

Yes, the brackets are designed to bolt to the wall using the studs. So if the OP needs to build a box to adjust the position to account for the deeper cabinets, they have to pay attention to how they fasten the box onto the wall so it can carry similar load when the bracket is attached to it to handle the load. The box is basically moving the wall out...

[Bill George]

Yup I have the old U shaped bracket I used in place of the new. Wall behind will have a piece of 3/4 inch plywood attached to studs and toggle bolts as needed and the next layer of 3/4 inch attached to it conforming to the needs of the U bracket then screwed to that. The new one is much lighter than the old. Of course then the two bolts to the top shelf. I believe the 1 1/2 inches will give me the clearance I need as it looks like 3/4 would do it.

[Lee DeRaud]

Wall behind will have a piece of 3/4 inch plywood attached to studs and toggle bolts as needed and the next layer of 3/4 inch attached to it conforming to the needs of the U bracket then screwed to that.

Ah, yes, toggle bolts. In the original kitchen layout, that 30" section was perfectly centered on a stud, which made that the only stud the bracket was attached to, with two toggle bolts at each end. The new layout moved that bay about 8", which made life a lot easier.

(And no, I didn't plan it that way, that's just how it worked out. )

[Brian Elfert]

Thanks Brian did you have the same issue? I have no problems taking it down and adding some 3/4 inch just wondering if that is what you did and it gave enough clearance? Its to heavy to be doing a lot of trial and error.

No, did not have the same issue. It just makes sense to put something on the wall to move the mounting bracket forward.

[Brian Elfert]

My cabinets are probably 12" deep. My Whirlpool microwave actually sticks out a decent amount from the cabinets. I would just as well have a range hood instead of the microwave, but my kitchen is tiny and I don't have another place for a microwave. The fan in the microwave seems to do a decent job at pulling in fumes and sending them outside.

[Jim Becker]

My cabinets are probably 12" deep. My Whirlpool microwave actually sticks out a decent amount from the cabinets. I would just as well have a range hood instead of the microwave, but my kitchen is tiny and I don't have another place for a microwave. The fan in the microwave seems to do a decent job at pulling in fumes and sending them outside.

You are fortunate that you are able to duct from the microwave outside. So many kitchens lack the duct work. I had to actually install it when I put in my current Hauslane hood after getting the induction range. It had never been put in when the house was built. Fortunately, there was a soffit with a path to the outside...a pain in the butt project, but necessary to make me happy. There are some microwave/hood combos that have better fans and CFM than many others.

[Brian Elfert]

You are fortunate that you are able to duct from the microwave outside. So many kitchens lack the duct work. I had to actually install it when I put in my current Hauslane hood after getting the induction range. It had never been put in when the house was built. Fortunately, there was a soffit with a path to the outside...a pain in the butt project, but necessary to make me happy. There are some microwave/hood combos that have better fans and CFM than many others.

The kitchen had no ductwork when I bought the house. I had to have ductwork installed by an HVAC company. They were able to run to the outside wall with a 6" or 8" duct. My cabinets do not go to the ceiling so they ran the duct between the cabinets and the ceiling. I built a soffit to cover the ductwork with plywood that is finished the same as the cabinets. I replaced the electric range with a gas range so I really needed a ducted range hood. I would want ducted even without a gas range.

[Jim Becker]

Our setup is the same, Brian, except the soffit was already there. I still need to do the mud-work on the drywall...it was supposed to be done when I was mudding the shop, but I, um...forgot. LOL