[OP]
Member
i have a adapter for a chuck on a morse taper and it works great,,my only problem is then i put it in the headstock to use it come out after you turn the machine on the morse taper comes out,,,i know you can make a drawbar for it but my problem is,, its flat with no threads,,it has a small hole but very small,,can anyone help me out,,,like i said the adapter works really good except for that
Contributor
Something has to keep pressure on the MT or it comes loose as you know. The drawbar is the best solution because you likely don't want to run with the tailstock against the other end of the workpiece. I have heard of some people really driving the MT home into the headstock and it works for a while but I don't think that's a good solution.
You can buy a replacement MT arbor for very little money and if you don't want to remove the chuck (assuming it is removable) you can get another complete unit for little money. You do not need a super high-quality unit.
Contributor
A morse taper is a press fit connection. It's okay to tap it into place with a light mallet. To remove, you'll need a knock-out rod that slides through the headstock.
Contributor
I suggest you paint the adapter with a marker then slide it in and rotate the adapter by hand. What you are doing is checking the fit of the male and female tapers. Either way I suggest you buy a chuck adapter that has a 1/4"-20 thread already in it. Most tapers are hardened steel and will not drill or tap easily.
Contributor
What kind of chuck? (collet chuck & kind of collet?, 3 jaw, 4 jaw, etc x size?)
What size Morse taper?
Contributor
You forgot drill chuck which is what I assume he is asking about. Size of Morse taper has little to do with any you asked about. You can use a 1/4" draw bar no matter what size morse taper.Originally Posted by stephen thomas
Contributor
Some of what you said is true.
But the reason i asked the questions is that someone just this morning asked a similar Q on PM - he wanted to adapt an ER32 collet chuck with MT taper shank to match a spindle like i built for a different/larger shaper. In those cases (his and mine) the MT shank is retained at the nose end, with a flange & a threaded collar.
If the OP here has a similar size chuck, that stuff is all over Ebay for less than the materials to make it. IOW Drill chuck, ER collet chuck, with almost any shank you want, including flat backs (say, for mounting to a modified tooling plate), etc.
For instance, if he wants ER40 with an MT3 shank, it's available from several sources for less than $35. WITH draw bolt threads. A 1/2" jacobs x MT2 or 3 shank combo is probably similar (I've bought multiples in past years) etc.
That is why it occurred to me that he might actually have a lathe chuck on a MT Taper. So to match parts cost effectively, it was worth asking rather than assuming.
Think about boring head shanks for some options, too - almost any Morse taper with draw bolt threads, and then a large threaded nose with flange in several common sizes, that can easily be used to fit a flat-back lathe chuck mount, if you thread it (the back plate) to suit.
With a lathe and a steady rest it is straight forward, but not trivial, to drill and thread a solid taper shank. Perhaps after annealing the end. Some have soft tangs or ends anyway.
smt
Last edited by stephen thomas; 05-23-2024 at 11:39 PM.
Contributor
Take it to a machine shop and see if they can drill and tap it for a drawbar or take it to a weld shop and have a drawbar welded to the end of it. Weld does have to be precise so as to not overhang the taper.
Contributor
A properly seated morse taper does not typically need a draw bar when used in a wood lathe.
Most times I've seen a morse taper chuck tread adapter, it's a dead center for aligning things in the tailstock, not for use in the headstock to drive a chuck.
Example
https://www.packardwoodworks.com/lat...-tlstkadp.html
Contributor
Jeff, you better stop back and add some details to your issue. This post has gotten like a sawed off shotgun pattern. It's gone everywhere!
Member
Morse tapers do not need anything to prevent the taper breaking if the taper is in good condition. First check that the male taper holding the chuck if clean and has no burrs or other damage and wipe it with acetone to remove residue oil. Next check the taper in the tail stock to see if it has any damage, burrs etc. If either taper has damage remedy that and make sure both tapers are smooth and clean. As mentioned above mark the male taper with a felt pen and insert it into the tailstock and then rotate the shaft then withdraw it to see if the marker has been removed evenly. If all is good then wind the chuck jaws inside the chuck and give the chuck one good hit to seat the taper using a block of wood between the chuck and the hammer. Don't use a mallet use a heaver hammer and only one solid hit but if the taper is in good condition the hit should not be necessary just push it in hard.
Chris
Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening
Contributor
It appears what is being stated in various posts in this thread does not match my experience with a MT in the headstock and, this is important, being used with no axial pressure on it from a tailstock or a drawbar. The OP said he had a chuck on a MT arbor and it works loose but he didn't clarify whether it was with or without any axial pressure from a tailstock. There is no drawbar in his case. However, usually when a chuck is being used, sooner or later, it will be used without a tailstock center in the way so I'll assume there is no axial pressure and this is why it is working loose.
Using the arbor in the lathe is not the same as a drill press for example. Forcing the drill down onto the workpiece does provide axial pressure on the MT arbor. If typical gouge cutting is done on a lathe, the forces are normal to the axis and thus do not aid in the holding power of the MT and the generated vibrations can exacerbate the problem.
There a numerous citations for woodturning in such a situation that specify a drawbar is to be used to hold the MT in place when a tailstock is not being used.
Contributor
It's far more common that a "chuck" is screwed onto the headstock threads rather than mounted via a morse taper.
I feel there is something missing or some misunderstanding of what going on in the OP's situation.
Contributor
I agree. I have used a chuck on a MT in the headstock to hold some small pieces but it was a regular Jacobs drill chuck, not a larger typical 4 jaw scroll chuck. I since have bought smaller jaws.
Hard to say just what his chuck is such as drill or scroll, whether or not it is on MT really intended for locating when turning a bowl around without running the lathe - put the MT, chuck and bowl in the tailstock and then bring up to say, a vacuum chuck ( I do this with my Oneway live center and adapter).
Contributor
I want to add a big like to Bill Howatt's posts.
There is also a retention method for MT that includes a flange and a threaded nut, so it can be retained at the nose. This is not common, certainly not in metalworking tools. However, it is not un-common on heavy Euro woodworking shapers, e.g. My Griggio has an MT5 socket. It came only with a collet chuck. I made a 1-1/8" x MT5 shank solid spindle for it, and a 1/2" solid spindle with a taper to mate solid in the collet chuck for small cutters. Both collar retained as OEM.
Depending on the OP's "chuck" it might be an option for him if the "chuck" is small, the lathe has a threaded nose, & he is close friends with a machinist.Until he has the courtesy to reply or post pictures, all we can do is speculate.
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