blade insert for delta/rockwell 12/14

[Warren Lake]

you can figure something out. A tab at the back ive never used anything but should. Ive not used metal ones in over 40 years other than on the last SCM slider I got and its lousey, it doesnt sit flush and is not even straight. Likely its tired and came in better shape

I put them in rear down first and that is where it would raise and or be thrown at you as the blade is coming up and forward there. I would put a tab at the back though that might change when I try it but makes sense now.

You might have to relief cut it first before it lowers down flush but depends on your blade and and. I usually use 3/4 baltic which is too thick then relieve it and put in allen screws for fine adjustment. Sometimes that ply is not straight enough as well.

[Bill Dufour]

Tabs at the back does make more sense. I have seen little nubs sticking out that go into the vertical wall of the slot at the back. Similar to the dowel pins for dining table leaves.
Bill D.

[Richard Coers]

I've never worked on a table saw that has hold down screws on the insert, and have made countless numbers of my own inserts. I make the insert just slightly snug in the opening and clamp down a board to hold it down with the initial cut. None have ever had even a slight movement trying to fly out.

[Mike Wilkins]

you can make an insert out of wood, use a Forstner bit to make a depression on the underside and super-glue some small magnets to hold it to the depression in the table.

[Warren Lake]

dont have any with a tab so far and screws are for levelling.

[Lee Schierer]

I designed an aluminum insert for my Craftsman saw. A machinist friend milled it for me. The only time I have to hold it down is when I am cutting up through an brand new maple zero clearance insert.
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I used to make them out of luan plywood, but they needed a reinforcing rib underneath once the saw kerf was made.
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I do use the flat head machine screw to hold down the front of the insert, even though it probably isn't necessary.