Contributor
Level vials are not all the same- there are different levels (pun) of sensitivity as well as accuracy.
The straightness of the beam is also a factor. Sometimes the biggest difference between an expensive level and a cheap one is the readability of the vials.
My door level (78") is old and the vials are hard to read and only some are accurate, so I use it as a straightedge, holding another level against it- usually a Stabila torpedo one.
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Originally Posted by mike stenson
Did I miss it’s an open conversation.. I didn’t see that you directed that the OP..
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Don't forget plumbobs and water hose levels.
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Contributor
Hi Carrol, I have a Stabilia that’s about 6 feet long that only was used for battery installation.
When you have 24 tons of wet cells on racks, the racks need to be shimmed to close tolerances, I’ve never needed that for woodworking although I have to admit, that level, and a Festool vacuum with a CT wings makes curtain rods a breeze.
My suggestion is to buy a high quality level once in your life, pay enough money that it forces you to treat it with respect, and store it, and transport it carefully
Regards, Rod.
Member
Funny story about levels. When I was building my pole shed I had a cousin who was a carpenter helping me. He said he could not figure out why the poles were not staying plumb. I took his level, flipped it 180 degrees and held it back up against the pole and he said okay thats better. Later in life he became a building inspector.
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For some jobs a cheap level is a good choice. I wouldn't want to use a good level for this job I did a few days as a step in forming a shower floor in a rental house that was at some point a converted agricultural building on a slab. I like using good ones for some jobs, and cheap plastic for others.
For installing cabs, I do like the thought of a Stabila (I like nice tools like everyone else). Right now, I have Empire, etc from the box stores. They work fine. 2ft, 4ft, and 6ft.
I think the Stabila is more a cool factor than anything (for me). It is faster than a laser and a tape for level, but at the same time a level can't give you height so you need the laser anyway. Also, when using levels you are generally doing something with it where the chance of it falling and hitting the ground is fairly high. Not sure how I would feel about dropping a $150+ level or how I would feel loading into my truck (maybe after I upgrade to an organized van, ha!).
Anyway, I can install cabs pretty darn well w/ a standard level and a reasonable cost laser and stand. In fact, I just upgraded my laser w/ the latest big for me job I got vs spending money towards a better level (if that tells you anything).
I would most definitely already have a digital Stabila if I did stair work. OTH, I have used cheap digital torpedo levels and Wixey's on the very small amount of stair projects I have done. They work too (for something like a straight hand rail slope). Not a perfect solution, but pretty decent and a lot cheaper.
Yes, I have 3 phase!
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For installing cabinetry, I used a Johnson’s wood level for almost 20 years. I found one side wasnt level anymore and the reason I started looking for a CRICK. When I got into furniture full time, I found it wasn’t that important and forgot about it.
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Yes; I still hang most doors with one, and have them in several weights. Also used them a lot in framing. But, I didnt mention them because too many people these days say that its too old school and slow. But, I am old school and taking my time is a luxury I allow myself these days. And, apart from any arguments about speed, its tough to argue against gravity.....
Last edited by Mark Wooden; 02-11-2024 at 2:42 PM. Reason: spelling
Contributor
With a plumbob, a stringline and a story stick you can build just about anything. Keep in mind that plumbobs point to the center of the earth, so two plumblines a distance apart wont be exactly parallel 😁But they will be pretty close.
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I still use a water level. Goes around corners, battery never goes dead. A couple of drops of dish soap in the water gets rid of the surface tension. I made mine with a 3' pipe with a viewing tube on the side, and about 1 1/2 gallon capacity so it is not so sensitive to loss. I use RV antifreeze, easier to see and I can store it out in the unheated barn.
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One of the things I like about Stabila is that they are machined flat. You can tell this by the swirl marks on the aluminum edge from the machining. This is not like cheapo levels that just have a fold-over aluminum edge.
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Over the years I’ve worked with a bunch of old timers. They would set the level on something ,and call it good. They seldom let go
of the level ‘cuz it might slide off.
Contributor
Application is everything. I have a Johnson and Stabilla. When the material or environment can rough up the level and “looks level” is good enough I use the Johnson. When leveling something more critical, I use the Stabila.
Against my Startett 36” edge guide guaranteed ±0.0002" per foot, the Stabila appears dead flat while the Johnson has a few minor valleys. So in some circumstances this may be a problem assuming they are both “level” to their bubble.
I like to think the Stabila is made precisely to be precise and STAY that way when properly handled. Doesn’t mean you can’t get lucky with a cheapie, but you might not too.
Contributor
Do not get fooled into getting a more sensitive machinist level. 0.005" per foot is often what a master precision level is called. Way too precise for wood working. That kind of sensitivity will have you chasing level all day long.
0.0005 will move as you walk up to read it because the concrete slab moves under you weight
Bill D
Last edited by Bill Dufour; 02-12-2024 at 1:38 AM.
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