What tool do I need?

[Rob Luter]

I’ve been looking for a plane of some kind to round edges and create bullnoses. I’ve always used a block plane to first chamfer and then refine, finishing up with sandpaper. It’s not always as uniform as I’d like. My thought was that a hollow molding plane might do the trick. I found a 1/2” version this week at an antique mall and after a few hours of fettling it works ok. I’m wondering if there’s a better option? Maybe a concave spokeshave? Maybe just refine my existing technique?

Thoughts?

[steven c newman]

The Stanley No.45 had extra cutters for such operations, and used a add-on sole to match. There was even one designed for that type of edge found on stair treads...

[Rob Luter]

I have a #45. Maybe I’ll try to track down some cutters that won’t break the bank. The hollow molding plane set me back $14. I’m guessing a single cutter will be more. Thus begins the quest.

[Tom M King]

You obviously need a whole set of Hollows and Rounds.

[Rob Luter]

You obviously need a whole set of Hollows and Rounds.

Like I need a hole in the head

Following the great tool purge of 2019 I made a vow that I would only add to the working kit for reasons of utility.

[Tom M King]

In order to have the exact tool you need when you need it, you need one of each and multiples of some always at hand.

[Rafael Herrera]

What size bullnoses?
You could remove most of the waste with a jack plane, finish with a hollow plane.

I've found large size H or R planes in the wild more frequently than the smaller sizes.

[David Carroll]

I have a full (okay well half) set of hollows and rounds, and will break them out when I have a lot of roundovers to do, but if it's just a small amount, I use a block plane and a scraper that I ground to a contour a long time ago to smooth the radius. It only takes a few minutes. Stanley made a purpose made corner rounding plane in several radii. I've never used one, but I see them on some of the fancy tool dealers sites, (Jim Bode, Supertools etc.). Might be worth looking for one if you need it or just want it.

DC

[Jim Koepke]

Rob, as far as Hollows and Rounds go, you may only need a few; small, medium & large. If you aren't going to get in to the making of molding you won't need the rounds.

Hollow planes can be used to make bullnose edges.

A bullnose plane is pretty much made to work only one size:

Bullnose Plane ~1-1:2%22.jpg

This one has two blades.

If you are lucky you might find these planes.

The set up for the Stanley #45 are not common and a search for a current listing on ebay was unsuccessful. I purchased on years ago and have never actually used it. The wooden molding planes are easier to get working.

jtk

[Rob Luter]

What size bullnoses? You could remove most of the waste with a jack plane, finish with a hollow plane.

I've found large size H or R planes in the wild more frequently than the smaller sizes.

For today I'm rounding the edge of some 1/2" thick stock. I spent some time yesterday developing a process much like you suggest. I'm knocking the corners off with a block plane, then following up with the 1/2" hollow molding plane. The plane still needs ro tweaks so it will take a uniformly fine shaving. The shape of the hollow has worn over time and doesn't match the cutter very well. I trued up the bottom with my shooting plane and got most of the way there on the hollow with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. Another hour or so and it will be cutting better than ever.

Rob, as far as Hollows and Rounds go, you may only need a few; small, medium & large. If you aren't going to get in to the making of molding you won't need the rounds.

jtk

That's my thought. I'm never going to make molding and just looked at the hollows as a cheap investment to do this sort of thing. Once I get the plane dialed in it will do a good job. Maybe I can find a bigger version too.

[steven c newman]

Have you ever thought to use the"Bead" cutters for the Stanley #45? Use the fenc to hide the left quirk,,,and leave the right one hanging in mid air...keep pressure against the fence to keep the plane vertical..

[Rob Luter]

Have you ever thought to use the"Bead" cutters for the Stanley #45? Use the fenc to hide the left quirk,,,and leave the right one hanging in mid air...keep pressure against the fence to keep the plane vertical..

Actually yes. The one cutter I have for my #45 is a bead cutter of the approximate size I need. Unfortunately there’s no way to control depth of cut. I learned that immediately. Let’s just say it wasn’t pretty.

[Jim Koepke]

Actually yes. The one cutter I have for my #45 is a bead cutter of the approximate size I need. Unfortunately there’s no way to control depth of cut. I learned that immediately. Let’s just say it wasn’t pretty.

Every once in a while a modified beading blade has come my way. They have one side of the blade removed to make a round over blade.

In my opinion, finding a selection of hollows will be a better solution. They will not only do a nice round over edge, they can be used to make a bullnose edge.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Let the fence ride on a batten, set to the depth YOU want to stop at...simple as that...

[Jim Koepke]

Just for fun and to answer another question from the past a trip to the shop took place and a #4 hollow (1/4") was used to round over a corner:

There are a few things to practice before doing this:

Hollow Rounding Corner.jpg

In this image my finger tips are being used to keep the top edge of the blade from touching the work.


Corner Round.jpg

If one is not careful the quirk points can leave a mark at the edge of the rounding. This can be cleaned up with a smoothing plane but can ruin a clean round over.

An alternative way to round the corner is to create rabbets on the two sides of the corner:

Double Rabbet Corner.jpg

This can be impressive:

Half Astragal?.jpg

Finally a #16 (1") hollow was used to round over the entire edge of this 4/4 piece of alder:

4:4 Bullnose.jpg

Almost a full bullnose, most folks wouldn't notice. An actual bullnose plane would do a complete half diameter cut as in my earlier post. That plane was later used to turn that piece into an approximately 1-1/2" dowel.

jtk