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Thread: Resaw question

  1. #1

    Resaw question

    Hi Everyone.
    Would love to know what I ought to be doing differently...
    I own a Laguna 18 BX (the blade info is below...)

    I'm trying to cut 2 in thick Indian acacia, I'm pushing the wood through slowly, but it's burning the wood. I'm not putting any pressure on the wood at the blade (or after it), so I'm not squeezing the wood...If you look at the picture, the burning starts at the beginning of the cut, before it's past the blade...


    The pic below shows the inside (burned) and the outside... to show the contrast...
    Help! I have another piece to cut!!
    thanks!

    public.jpg

    using:


    Timber Wolf® 1” x 2/3VPC

    Blade Designation: Resawing Kiln Dry Domestic Wood

    Width: 1"
    TPI (Tooth Per Inch): 2/3
    Tooth Design: VPC (variable positive claw)
    Blade Thickness: .035
    Kerf: .059
    Tooth Hook Angle: 6.5°
    Tooth Set Pattern: 5 Raker Set
    Radius of Cut: 7 1/8”

    Thickness of Work Material to be cut
    Kiln Dry Wood: Hardwood 3" - 12" Softwood 3" - 10"



  2. #2
    I would suspect a dull blade.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Dull blade and/or going too slow. That said, sometimes certain species of wood is more prone to burning. I've never ripped Indian Acacia to know for sure. Does it do the same thing if you rip it on the table saw with a good blade? If so, it's probably just wood prone to burning. But otherwise, I'd say the blade is too dull.

  4. #4
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    IIRC the wood is exceptionally hard. In wood like that, I think I'd start with a brand new blade...

    Is the wood pinching the blade as you move through the cut? I have no idea how much acacia moves when you resaw it.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by James Jayko View Post
    IIRC the wood is exceptionally hard. In wood like that, I think I'd start with a brand new blade...

    Is the wood pinching the blade as you move through the cut? I have no idea how much acacia moves when you resaw it.
    Very good point about moving while being resawn. If it's kiln dry and really is dry, then it won't move, but if it has any trapped moisture, that for sure is something to consider.

  6. #6
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    If it’s not a dull blade your looking at. That’s some very difficult wood to resaw. It could have silica in it a lot of the exotic rain forest woods have both resin and sand.
    Good Luck
    Aj

  7. #7
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    I'd guess dull blade first, misaligned blade causing the wood to pinch against the fence, wet wood (which is what it looks like in the photo), or blade pinching. Acacia is really hard stuff. I don't think a regular blade will cut many feet before it dulls. A carbide blade would be my choice.

    John

  8. #8
    Do you know what species of Acacia, scientific name for your species?
    There are many kinds of Acacia and they vary quite a lot

  9. #9
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    Just an off the wall thought. Is you drive belt tight enough. If you can't cut very fast, it may be because the belt is slipping and the wheels are slowing down. When I first tried ripping with my band saw, I had a similar problem on thicker cuts. When I checked the belt, it wasn't very tight and it was slipping under load. My cuts went much faster after the belt was tightened.
    Lee Schierer
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Burnside View Post
    Very good point about moving while being resawn. If it's kiln dry and really is dry, then it won't move, but if it has any trapped moisture, that for sure is something to consider.
    Or if the wood is dry but has internal stresses the wood can move as the blade cuts, either tightening or loosening the kerf.

  11. #11
    Are the teeth still sharp to the touch, if so, the set has possibly become compressed.
    Can you see much flutter, how about at reduced tension, that I reckon would be from wheels needing alignment

    Really pushing the boat out cutting a circle at pretty much the minimum diameter for the blade, and asking for trouble.
    I wonder why so many folks get extremely wide blades for their machines, perhaps the carbide blades are the reason for it,
    and some test run a regular blade before splashing out?
    Could it be some other videos out there suggesting such a blade, I'd think not, but wouldn't be surprised if one particular youtube might be
    the reason folks think blade tension needn't be such a big deal.

    Good luck
    Tom

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Weber View Post
    Do you know what species of Acacia, scientific name for your species?
    There are many kinds of Acacia and they vary quite a lot
    I don't know what the species is!

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Edward Weber View Post
    I would suspect a dull blade.
    This could be it, although I haven't used the blade very often... someone else mentioned using a carbide blade...

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    Just an off the wall thought. Is you drive belt tight enough. If you can't cut very fast, it may be because the belt is slipping and the wheels are slowing down. When I first tried ripping with my band saw, I had a similar problem on thicker cuts. When I checked the belt, it wasn't very tight and it was slipping under load. My cuts went much faster after the belt was tightened.
    I will check this out, thanks for the idea!

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    Or if the wood is dry but has internal stresses the wood can move as the blade cuts, either tightening or loosening the kerf.
    I don't think the wood is pinching the blade because the burning happens before the wood has cleared the blade ... it's happening from the beginning of the cut...

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