Homemade guides for Stanley 59 doweling jig

[Jason Buresh]

I was given a Stanley 59 doweling jig, and it didn't have any of the guide bushings but does have what appears to be a depth stop that someone put where the guide tube should go.
IMG_2482.jpg

If my hunch is correct and that is indeed a depth stop I am glad that is there and not missing. While it could be done it seems that would be harder to make than a guide bushing.

Has anyone made replacement bushings? I would think you could use some sort of tubing or piping. Or even a wooden dowel drilled out on a drill press or something?

Thanks for the tips!

[Richard Coers]

The bushings have to be heat treated and be harder than the drill bit to survive for much time at all. You can buy drill bushings from places like McMaster-Carr. No idea if those generic bushing would work at all.

[Jim Koepke]

Would you like an image of a set of original bushings?

If you can find tubing of the right sizes it would likely work. Probably would work to drill out steel or even brass rod to a size to fit bits used for dowelling.

If they do wear from use, it would be easy to make another.

jtk

[Jason Buresh]

Jim if you have an image to share that would be great

I am thinking I would mainly use it with auger bits if possible, so maybe that isn't as hard on the bushings as an HSS bit in a power drill.

[Jim Koepke]

Here are the images from my set:

Stanley #59 Dowel Tool.jpg

The depth stop at the top left is a #49. It is amazing how much those are going for now. Mine cost about ten bucks years ago. The depth stop on the right is an older version of what used to come with the #59 Dowel Tool. From the marking on the instructions this one is maybe from the 1940s.

Here is a detail of the guides:

#59 Dowel Guides.jpg

The guide sizes are from 3/16” to 9/16” by increments of 1/16”. The 3/16” is marked No. 3 3/16” the 9/16” is unmarked (it may not have been original and the 3/16” doesn’t show up on the instruction sheet. The 1/4” to 1/2” all have a center line scribed across the top.

Forgot to measure how long they are. Look to be about 1-1/2 to 2".

Of course it is always good to have the instruction sheet:

Stanley Dowe Toolss Pg 1.jpg

Staney #59 Instructions.jpg

If my reading of the coding on the instructions is correct they may have been printed in 1940.

jtk

[Charles Guest]

I was given a Stanley 59 doweling jig, and it didn't have any of the guide bushings but does have what appears to be a depth stop that someone put where the guide tube should go.
IMG_2482.jpg

If my hunch is correct and that is indeed a depth stop I am glad that is there and not missing. While it could be done it seems that would be harder to make than a guide bushing.

Has anyone made replacement bushings? I would think you could use some sort of tubing or piping. Or even a wooden dowel drilled out on a drill press or something?

Thanks for the tips!

You need the bushings. Check EBay. Here's a warning though -- not all auger bits will fit. Newer ones are often a 64th over nominal. I have the same jig you have and an old set of Stanley Handyman auger bits that fit the bushings. Newer auger bits by Irwin do not, they are a 64th over as mentioned.

[Rob Young]

You need the bushings. Check EBay. Here's a warning though -- not all auger bits will fit. Newer ones are often a 64th over nominal. I have the same jig you have and an old set of Stanley Handyman auger bits that fit the bushings. Newer auger bits by Irwin do not, they are a 64th over as mentioned.

Occasionally you will see doweling auger bits show up. They are shorter and of correct OD. Full length ones, if they will fit the bushings, can act like levers and pull the jig off to the side as you crank (too enthusiastically) and you get funny shaped holes.

[Jack Dover]

I own a complete set, but I'm thinking about buying generic drill bushings like Richard has suggested. My primary complaint is that it seems there's no drill bit that fits snug. It shouldn't be too tight, but shouldn't move a 1/16" either.