Another way to look at it is to consider that the highest stress the wire is under is when it's being pushed back into the box. In the case of side-wiring, that pressure is exerted to at least hold the wire in place, whereas with loop wiring, it is to push it away from the screw.
It's worth noting here that even experienced electricians have difficulty free-handing the tightening of the screws to within 10 percent of spec. Here's an interesting discussion of that: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H21lZxyvMNw
I may have interpreted #3 incorrectly, but I took it as referring to a situation where more than one receptacle i in a box. In that case, one could strip off a bit of insulation mid-wire, bend it into a U, and put it under the screw. The remaining tail then goes on to feed the next receptacle.
I could see maybe using in commercial environment if receptacles are going bad regularly due to heavy use. I don't see why it would be worth it for residential as receptacles shouldn't need replacement for several decades at earliest. My parent's house was built in 1979 and the receptacles are all original. My house was built in 1980 and many of the receptacles had no tension anymore. (Most of the stuff in the house was cheap and had to be replaced.) I replaced every switch and receptacle in the house. I bought a better grade of receptacles since the total additional cost for the whole house was maybe $30.
Squeezing the wire around the screw is the way to go, no doubt, if that’s what the receptacle requires. But the length of wire, however short protruding from the box, might dictate that you’re better off side-wiring (under the clamp,) and your life is made easier by using receptacles that support that.
Last edited by Doug Dawson; 03-07-2021 at 4:31 AM.