No fear
I think I'm going to try this on *something*..maybe not this planer bed this time around if I choose not to resurface it...but if I do choose to resurface it, think I'm gonna experiment first. And a 'throw caution to the wind' approach with a ROS is a popular vote.
You are in agreement with a LOT of others, and there must be a reason for that..probably truth. I'm still looking to verify that the volume/thickness of surface rust is 100 times thicker than the iron layer needed to create it. It would make a lot of sense base on everyone's experiences with maintaining acceptable flatness after abrasives.
Erik thanks for the reply (and the earlier replies too). I was planning on taking it all apart anyway and replacing the head (with byrd or hermance) but thought it'd be 'fun' (and maybe even good-enough at the end) to see what happens after cleaning the table up. Was just unsure how I wanted to go about it, so I thought I'd solicit some opinions here. A lot of great advice, and it seems there are many ways to go about this and get good results. I'll just have to pick one to try first for the bed. Think I'm gonna go the Evaporust route for all the small parts. I will post more pics once I clean up the bed as best I can, and then I'll decide if I'm gonna have the bed resurfaced. Figure I could probably find a machine shop in the LA area that will do it. Would like to plane it, old-school style, if I go that route.
Bugs me too, and I only sorta know what I'm doing off advice from others and assuming things. No restoration experience.
Yea that missing tooth on the sprocket would keep me up at night ...well maybe just irk me.
As far as the planer bed, I'm the type of person where if I see that same wallow transferred to my freshly-planed boards, it's gonna be unsat...especially like you said if I've already taken the whole thing apart.
Thanks for the replies.
Oh I see what you're saying...you mean the table alignment ways on the front and back that are machined into the casting. Yea I want those flat too...but I figured the table would be more important? No?
And I was just aiming to be able to measure and setup the machine to what the manual stated, if I could. It said 0.001 from knives-to-bed as measured across the bed as a reference, so that's what I was aiming for.
And appreciate the replies, thank you.
I read years ago that. height difference of 1/1000" is the point at which the human eye can spot a step in a wood tabletop before finishing. Not using a ruler or anything, just looking at an angle in decent lighting.
Bil lD
- After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
- It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.
I worked in an automotive machine shop, many times we were required to resurface parts becuase the mechanic took a scotchbrite wheel to a machined surface to clean off a gasket.
So if you think you aren’t affecting your table, you are wrong.
A light touch with scotchbrite (by hand!) with light oil as a lubricant.
I don’t see the logic in wrecking a surface to make it pretty, I’d rather have it ugly and flat.
Last edited by Brian Holcombe; 09-23-2020 at 8:51 AM.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.