remind me again - HVLP (pressurized) sprayable door and trim material

[Rob Young]

Remind me again on the list of HVLP sprayable (pressurized cup) interior door and trim materials.

SW's ProCalssic interior acrylic latex
BM/Lenmar Ultralaq and Duralaq (although the Duralaq is nitrocellulouse, right?)
Target ???
General Finishes Enduro pigmented (white) poly?
GF "milk" paint + topcoat?


My preferred primer is Zinser BIN (the real shellac based version, not the new synthetic shellac one).

4-stage HVLP turbine and I have both cup under and top feed pressurized guns and wide range of N/N sizes to choose from. I've not had any issues spraying enamel-latex paints in the past.

This seems like a list we should edit up and make a sticky topic.

[Bruce Lowekamp]

Target is EM6500. Docs say can be applied over BIN if it's thinned 50%. BIN is my preferred primer as well, but I am hesitant to put it into a gun since I usually only use disposable brushes etc with it.

Bruce

[John TenEyck]

Duralaq WB is waterborne and sprays great. It comes in clear and white, but can be tinted to any of BM's colors.

Duralaq Undercoater is their waterborne primer and the viscosity is just as low as BIN shellac based primer, sprays great and clean up is a breeze.

John

[Rob Young]

Duralaq WB is waterborne and sprays great. It comes in clear and white, but can be tinted to any of BM's colors.

Duralaq Undercoater is their waterborne primer and the viscosity is just as low as BIN shellac based primer, sprays great and clean up is a breeze.

John

Curious to know if you've tried Duralaq WB over Zinser (shellac) BIN? I really like the non-grain raising aspect of the BIN vs. other stuff I've tried. Have not tried the Duralaq Undercoater though.

[Jim Becker]

The GF Milk Paint (which is not "milk paint'; rather, it's an acrylic) doesn't need to be top-coated unless you don't like the satin sheen. But Target's EM6500 is also satin.

[Dan Jansen]

I’m getting ready to spray Rustoleum Ultra Coverage. It is waterbased and says you don’t have to prime. It has limited colors but in my first test it dried harder than the Dutch Boy cabinet paint I brushed on. I watched a clip on YouTube from a guy who recommended it. He seemed to know what he was talking about and it wasn’t the usual, “this is my first time painting” video.

[John TenEyck]

Curious to know if you've tried Duralaq WB over Zinser (shellac) BIN? I really like the non-grain raising aspect of the BIN vs. other stuff I've tried. Have not tried the Duralaq Undercoater though.

I honestly can't remember if I've used Duralaq WB over BIN shellac based primer. I do know that the Duralaq Undercoater is a great product and did not raise the grain much on my soft maple frame doors. I use it for most of my priming needs now under WB paints because it's cheap, cheaper than BIN, works great, and cleans up with soap and water. For new wood with no knots I really like Undercoater.

John

[Rob Young]

Duralaq WB is waterborne and sprays great. It comes in clear and white, but can be tinted to any of BM's colors.

Duralaq Undercoater is their waterborne primer and the viscosity is just as low as BIN shellac based primer, sprays great and clean up is a breeze.

John

Ordered a gallon of the WB Duralaq tinted in the color I was told to use...
And a gallon of the undercoater. You were right, the undercoater is much cheaper than the BIN.

All should be in middle of next week, they aren't stocked at my BenMoore dealer.

Plan is to spray two more doors with the undercoater week from tomorrow and all three with the acrylic after that. I'll take notes.

[John TenEyck]

I think you're really going to like how well they spray. I had the Duralaq White tinted to match the color of SW's ProClassic White for some kitchen cabinets and passage doors I recently made because it's so much easier to spray. The color match was spot on.

Look forward to your updates.

John

[Jim Becker]

I think you're really going to like how well they spray. I had the Duralaq White tinted to match the color of SW's ProClassic White for some kitchen cabinets and passage doors I recently made because it's so much easier to spray. The color match was spot on.

Look forward to your updates.

John

That's good to know...ProClassic is my standard for trim in the house and while I 'can' spray it, having something more friendly with spraying is a nice thing. What about the sheen? ProClassic satin is more matte than many other satins, in my experience.

[John TenEyck]

That's good to know...ProClassic is my standard for trim in the house and while I 'can' spray it, having something more friendly with spraying is a nice thing. What about the sheen? ProClassic satin is more matte than many other satins, in my experience.

I used ProClassic satin for the baseboard and door trim and Duralaq satin for the cabinets and doors. The Duralaq might be a hair higher sheen, but they are really close. If I were even more anal than I already am, however, I could have added some of Hood Finishing's WB flattening agent to cut the sheen. That stuff is another bargain. Something like $30 for a gallon, including shipping. A gallon is going to last me forever.

If you want the ProClassic formula BM used to tint the Duralaq I think I have it. If so, I'm happy to post it. They created it from a color sample I made up; not something they looked up.

John

[Jim Becker]

That absolutely would be handy to have, John. Like I said, I don't mind spraying ProClassic if I need to, but it's not the best product for that kind of application.

[John TenEyck]

That absolutely would be handy to have, John. Like I said, I don't mind spraying ProClassic if I need to, but it's not the best product for that kind of application.

OK, here's what it says on the sticker they put on the top of the can.

GY-3
LE1WB.204 Satin

John

[Wakahisa Shinta]

John, what do you use to clean your gun after spraying Lenmar Duralaq? I read the TDS, but want to hear your real-time method.

I have been spraying BM Advance with a Fuji Q5 and T75G gun, but dislike the cure time required for BM Advance. I have a non-kitchen cabinet project coming up and want to try another product. Duralaq sounds like a nice one to try.

Thanks!

[Rob Young]

John, what do you use to clean your gun after spraying Lenmar Duralaq? I read the TDS, but want to hear your real-time method.

I have been spraying BM Advance with a Fuji Q5 and T75G gun, but dislike the cure time required for BM Advance. I have a non-kitchen cabinet project coming up and want to try another product. Duralaq sounds like a nice one to try.

Thanks!

Not John, but for me to clean immediately after WB acrylics and latex (and blends) I use household ammonia. About 1/2 of the gun cup is ammonia, the rest water. Spray it through. Repeat if necessary but with less ammonia. Then a cup of water. Disassemble the gun, wipe down stuff and if necessary I'll soak the N/N set in a coffee cup with more ammonia for an hour or so and then scrub. So far, so good. Outside of gun is getting a bit ratty looking because I'm not really cleaning that well. Just the inside.

At some point I should strip it down 100% and dump everything into a can full of "gun cleaner" solvent for an overnight soak. Then replace the glans and reassemble.