I'm working on some Native American eagle feather boxes. Wood is western red cedar because eastern isn't available in my area which is ironic because it grows like weeds in my state of Oklahoma.
Anyway my plan was to finish the outside with 100% pure tung oil. The inside will be left bare for the bug and fungal repellent properties of the cedar.
Wood was sanded to 400 grit before finishing started.
After 3 good coats of pure tung, the wood definitely drank it up, is colored nicely, the grain definitely popped and while wet looks fantastic. After wiping dry it is just dead flat and lifeless, no sheen at all. None.
So, on to plan B. Home brew danish oil. Here's my mix:
1 part 100% tung oil
1/2 part BLO (I wanted to darken it some and wanted the drier to maybe help with the tung)
1 part Minwax oil based fast dry satin poly
1.5 parts turpentine (it very hot and I wanted the slower dry of the turp)
1st coat flooded. This wood just drinks it up. Kept wet for a good 15 minutes reapplying to the "thirsty parts" at least a half dozen times. Wipe totally dry (all coats).
2nd coat after 24 hours just like 1st (not as much drinking it up, but still some).
3rd coat, much lighter (not drinking near as much now) and wet sanded in with 600 grit wet-r-dry.
4th coat, wet sanded with 800 grit.
Still having the dead flat, lifeless look but maybe there's light in the end of the tunnel. It's so dang smooth it might be starting to have the satin matte sheen I'm after!
I've watched a bazillion youtube videos and read countless articles and posts. Most are dealing with a hardwood and look like exactly what I'm shooting for. On soft open pored wood is it normal to have to go so high a grit on the sanding? If it doesn't pop at 1000 grit, I think I'm there with a coat of wax, but i'm definitely not getting results like I see everyone else getting.
Edit: I have no idea how to rotate the pics.
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