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Thread: can someone please help with a mechanical problem with my Grizzly table saw?

  1. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by David Buchhauser View Post
    Hi Gunter,
    The main reason I moved my slider forward is so that I could stand in the traditional position when using the saw for conventional ripping of longer boards.
    David
    Yeah, that is nice. I just don't like taking the miter fence on and off each time. It would be different if it were easier to remove, but I have to fumble around with a hex key. I don't know--both approaches have their merits. Really, I think the slider attachment is sort of asking the saw to do more than a saw with the footprint is really intended to do, so there will be some inherent compromises.

    In my dream shop I would have this. Until then the grizzly will suffice.
    sawroller.gif

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
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    Quote Originally Posted by Günter VögelBerg View Post
    Yeah, that is nice. I just don't like taking the miter fence on and off each time. It would be different if it were easier to remove, but I have to fumble around with a hex key. I don't know--both approaches have their merits. Really, I think the slider attachment is sort of asking the saw to do more than a saw with the footprint is really intended to do, so there will be some inherent compromises.

    In my dream shop I would have this. Until then the grizzly will suffice.
    sawroller.gif
    Hi Gunter,
    I can't tell from the picture - exactly what kind of saw it? Is it a slider or conventional?

    My Grizzly slider has no hex keys, only knurled handles.
    I don't take if off very much. I have another table saw for ripping longer boards. It's an old Craftsman from 1983.
    Thanks,
    David

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by David Buchhauser View Post
    Hi Gunter,
    I can't tell from the picture - exactly what kind of saw it? Is it a slider or conventional?

    My Grizzly slider has no hex keys, only knurled handles.
    I don't take if off very much. I have another table saw for ripping longer boards. It's an old Craftsman from 1983.
    Thanks,
    David
    It is a Northfield sliding table saw.

    I find that I have to always tighten and loosen the set screw in front of the t-track piece of the miter gauge, and if I do not I never get back to 90. Maybe I am missing something.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
    Posts
    1,205
    Do you mean the setscrew in the miter bar?

  5. #35
    I think so. I'll take a photo tomorrow.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Tucson, Arizona
    Posts
    1,205
    Hi Gunter,
    Here are some photos of my Grizzly slider miter fence. I loosen the large knurled knobs (handles) to remove or adjust it. It does have several setscrews in the front of the miter bar, but I don't think that I have to remove or adjust these to remove/replace the miter fence. Are these the same set screws that yours has?
    David


    Grizzly slider miter gauge.jpgGrizzly slider miter gauge set screws.jpg

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