FYI: six died in this balcony collapse caused by dry rot. Within a month or so the city closed the fishing pier as being unsafe.
Bil lD.
https://www.mercurynews.com/2017/06/...cony-collapse/
FYI: six died in this balcony collapse caused by dry rot. Within a month or so the city closed the fishing pier as being unsafe.
Bil lD.
https://www.mercurynews.com/2017/06/...cony-collapse/
A couple more thoughts:
1. Regular laminated beams are not rated for exterior use.
2. Lag bolts are no longer acceptable for structural loads.
3. Though you may not be worried about the structure, if someone gets hurt because it collapses, guess who pays the freight.
4. Just because the house was built in 1979 does not mean the deck was properly built to start with.
5. Ohio has adopted the IBC and the IRC for the entire state.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute
I'll try to get some pix when I get home. The deck sticks out 5.5' from the exterior wall. The joists extend in the house about 10'. Again, all are accessible.
Thanks for the replies.
You said the house is brick. Is it brick veneer (regular wood framing and sheathing with the brick on the outside) or solid, multi-course brick? If veneer (likely given when the house was built) you would be better off cutting off the joists, install a ledger and build the deck independent of the cantilever.
Bracken's Pond Woodworks[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
My last trip to Menard's included some PT 2x10's 12 and 16 feet. Surprised they were kiln dried without asking for KDAT. They were $22.47 and $16.98 each respectively. As long as you replace in kind, and you haven't noticed any bounce problems, you should be good to replace. I wouldn't sister to already rotting external joists either. Lag screws, not bolts, are your friend. Run them in with an impact driver, no pre-drilling like with lag bolts. Or bolt through as you stated.
NOW you tell me...
IMG_1025.jpg
Deck in need of repair.
IMG_1024.jpg
Inside photos
IMG_1027.jpg
IMG_1028.jpg
So, I have access to the joists, both below and above the floor they support.
That would be a typical repair technique.
I don't understand what you mean by that.then using 3' on either side of the the joist's butted ends.
.
Looking at the photos, I hope you have a brick saw.
Edit: I see what you mean. You will cut off the end of each joist somewhere inside the house and removed the end of the joist. You will replace the end with a new board and splice the new board to the rest of the existing joist using a third board.
Last edited by Stephen Tashiro; 06-27-2018 at 2:52 AM.
Okay
Follow the old rule of thumb
if the cantilever is 5' you need at least 10' inside
treated wood should work by sistering existing floor joists
I wood also install crush blocks to support the the upper wall
when you start removing brick you could be opening a can of worms
if the joists are rotting, the wall system could also be compromised
good luck
Carpe Lignum
Having dealt with this problem before I'd ditch the cantilever, which will be an unending source of problems, and put in posts both at the house and the edge of the deck to support it without relying on the house structure. You can tie it to the house, but do it in such a way that you can flash the connection properly. Let the new post and beam system actually hold the deck up. Your current system is a recipe for allowing water, rot, and termites into the structure of your house; a classically bad idea.
I suspect Roger was thinking that the apron was wide enough for a vehicle to swing around to enter the garage. That holding true, there could be a post at each corner of the deck and at the center, for a total of (6) posts. Again, given an adequate driveway apron, that would work & be structurally sound and a least expensive alternative. It would allow for joists to be installed (sistered) to the existing joists & supported by a ledger boards on top of,or attached, to the posts without affecting the brick wall, all this providing there is no joist rot inside the house. As for the post on the entry side of the apron he could add some type of framework to increase the visibility of the post to prevent driving into it.
I think Roger has presented a very viable and cost effective way to remedy this problem. Also, if there is enough land with adequate setback the driveway apron could be expanded if needed. This would basically leave the house alone.
Thoughts entering one's mind need not exit one's mouth!
As I age my memory fades .... and that's a load off my mind!
"We Live In The Land Of The Free, Only Because Of The Brave"
“The problems we face today are there because the people who work for a living are outnumbered by those who vote for a living."
"Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." Winston Churchill