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Thread: Trouble with a 45 degree cut on the table saw

  1. #31
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    SUCH a simple thing, still waiting for the answer.

    All it takes is someone w a 45 tilted blade seeing how it rises.

    Pretty darn simple. Marc

  2. #32
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    "Fine Woodworking", Tools and Shop 2016, issue #251 has an article 'bout making a Zero Clearance Insert (ZCI). Also includes special instructions for making a ZCI for a SawStop, which needs to have sections of the underside partially relieved/cut out so as to clear the arbor nut.

    Infinity Tools has a special ZCI with replaceable inserts for SawStop: https://www.infinitytools.com/saw-bl...th-two-inserts
    Last edited by Ray Newman; 08-03-2017 at 7:59 PM.

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Jeske View Post
    SUCH a simple thing, still waiting for the answer.

    All it takes is someone w a 45 tilted blade seeing how it rises.

    Pretty darn simple. Marc
    Mine just moves outward at the 45 degree angle. It's exactly the same movement as if the blade was at 90 degrees, but the blade moves outward at 45 degrees.

    Mike
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Jeske View Post
    SUCH a simple thing, still waiting for the answer.

    All it takes is someone w a 45 tilted blade seeing how it rises.

    Pretty darn simple. Marc
    Tim already answered that question.

  5. #35
    Try putting a smaller blade on the saw. (such as a 7 1/4" blade like used on a skill saw). With the blade fully lowered, turn on the saw and raise the blade thru the insert (gotta hold down the insert with the edge of your rip fence). All done while at the 45 degree angle. Then try with your 10" blade.

    That is how I must do it with my Unisaw as the blade does not go down far enough to clear the insert.

    All this is assuming no splitter or riving knife is attached. Once the blade slot is cut you can make clearance for those.
    Frankie

    I have a great Border Collie, she just can't hold her licker!

  6. #36
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    Cary - If Tim explained it in Post #23, Which I read, then I still don't understand the problem.

    We have already talked about the blade at 45 possibly not disappearing fully under the table.

    That seems to be common.

    If the blade moves in a proper direction, then what impedes his cut ?

    Makes NO sense to me.

    Arbor nut and washer clearance should be obvious, not an issue to discuss.


    Please explain to me "like I'm a 5 yr old"

    Thank all for the patience. Marc
    Last edited by Marc Jeske; 08-03-2017 at 10:32 PM.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Jeske View Post
    Cary - If Tim explained it in Post #23, Which I read, then I still don't understand the problem.

    We have already talked about the blade at 45 possibly not disappearing fully under the table.

    That seems to be common.

    If the blade moves in a proper direction, then what impedes his cut ?

    Makes NO sense to me.

    Arbor nut and washer clearance should be obvious, not an issue to discuss.


    Please explain to me "like I'm a 5 yr old"

    Thank all for the patience. Marc

    I thought you were waiting for an answer to how his blade raises. This he answered. Now it sounds like you wanted an answer to what the obstruction is. He has not answered this.

  8. #38
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    The Missus tells me I am overly demanding. Marc

  9. #39
    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    Would this work?

    Start your blade at 90 degrees. Turn the saw on, then tilt the blade.
    Oh God, no!

  10. #40
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    That was my guess, arbor nut rubbing insert.

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny means View Post
    Oh God, no!
    Why not. I can do that with my SS. I would think you can do that with any table saw, provided it has been set up properly.

    Tim

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frankie Hunt View Post
    Try putting a smaller blade on the saw. (such as a 7 1/4" blade like used on a skill saw). With the blade fully lowered, turn on the saw and raise the blade thru the insert (gotta hold down the insert with the edge of your rip fence). All done while at the 45 degree angle. Then try with your 10" blade.

    That is how I must do it with my Unisaw as the blade does not go down far enough to clear the insert.

    All this is assuming no splitter or riving knife is attached. Once the blade slot is cut you can make clearance for those.
    You can not use a smaller blade on the SS saws. There has to be a specific distance between the teeth of the blade and the brake cartridge. With a 7 1/4 blade you are well beyond the range of adjustment of the brake cartridge.

    Tim

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Jeske View Post
    SUCH a simple thing, still waiting for the answer.

    All it takes is someone w a 45 tilted blade seeing how it rises.

    Pretty darn simple. Marc
    Here is the video of how the blade raises/lowers.



    Here is a pic showing that the riving knife is out of the way.



    I didnt want to try and hold a camera in one hand and adjust the blade in the other with the saw running so I dont have video of that right now. However, I am getting a tripod later today to do some unrelated filming and I'll see about making a video of the actual cut then.
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