Is an 8" jointer enough?

[Rich Riddle]

I started with an antique Craftsman 4", then a Delta 6", then a Jet 8", and then finally bought a 15" or so Minimax. Do your wallet a favor and purchase a size larger than you think you need. Constant upgrades get expensive.

[David Linnabary]

The hard part is being patient until the right deal comes along on a larger machine. I suppose a lot depends on how much you want to purchase a turn key machine vs one that might require some work. I agree with David Kumm above, his mention of the older PM 12", if he is referring to the SCMI manufactured ones, they also built for Rockwell in the 70's. I was looking for an old but not too old a machine, nothing with babbit bearings or the square cutterhead but I was willing to deal with a 3 phase so that narrowed my scope a good bit and it did take a while to find the right deal that wasn't too to far away.

If I didn't have a jointer and there was an 8" machine was available, I'd buy it and start enjoying it now. Maybe you'll upgrade someday. If you really feel you need to then stash away the money for it and be ready when the deal comes along.

David

[Jim Becker]

"For me", an 8" jointer isn't enough which is why I bought my J/P originally. I like to work with wide boards and flattening lumber is also important to me.

Your decision needs to be based on what you intend to use the jointer for...or what you envision using it for if your habits might change with more capability.

[Earl McLain]

if space or money were not an issue I would have an aircraft sized jointer, but a good 8" jointer is all anybody really needs. Remove your guard and rabbeting attachment and you can easily joint boards of 12" or more; just double stick tape something flat (is use 3/4 ply) to the jointed part, flip over and run through you planer, essentially using your planer as a jointer. Anyone who ever said that your jointer and planer have to be the same size, isn't thinking very creatively. For boards wider that 12 inches (and I use a lot in my work, I will either use a rounder sled or of the board is reasonably flat a planer to get one flat surface. My advice, get yourself a quality 8 inch jointer, and spend the money saved on something else! One last thing, the difference in quality between most 6 and 8 inch jointers is huge. I haven't notice any improved quality in going from 8 to 12 inch jointers. A lot of serious woodworkers opt for 8 inch jointers.

It took a few seconds for that technique to sink in Bob, but i like it!! I may keep my 6" after all.
earl

[mark mcfarlane]

I rarely buy or use boards wider than 8". That said, I use my 12" MM combo all the time. Changed out to Byrd Helical Head and never going back.

Mike, can you briefly share your experience between the Tersa and Byrd heads on the MM combo? Conceptually, I really like the idea of the Tersa head and a <2 minute swap of 3 knives: to mill some crapwood, to change steels for a different finish, 5 seconds to slide a knife to get rid of the nick,..

[Steven Wayne]

Whelp.. I found a 16" Oliver 166 with a Byrd Shelix head on it for $4500 within driving distance. That puts the machine directly in Minimax FS30 - FS41 Classic price range. I already have the 20" four post planer with Shelix head.. I'm tempted to buy the beautiful old iron... The FS41 Classic isn't too far off in price and the combo machines space savings is appealing. Ugh...

[Andrew Hughes]

Oh man that is a hard choice. Be sure you have enough electrical service to run the Oliver if your at a home shop like me.Im not sure about the euro machine.But I do have some experience with the needs for the three phase Oliver.

[David Kumm]

Most Oliver 16" ran a 5 hp motor. I've sen very few with an upgrade 7.5 or 10 at that size. Dave

[Steven Wayne]

Most Oliver 16" ran a 5 hp motor. I've sen very few with an upgrade 7.5 or 10 at that size. Dave

This machine is 5hp direct drive. I'm not worried about powering the machine. More questioning if it's the right machine for me. It looks incredible.

[Pat Barry]

In my view, wide sticks are full of growth stress and should be ripped (bandsawn) down to a manageable size before jointing.
If the glue line is the issue, re-assembly as ripped, usually makes the joint invisible on the face.
Moreover, do you have the strength to manage an 8-12" wide stick?
A 6-8/4 10" x 8' stick can weigh 35+ pounds. Can you hold a stick down on the table, end to end, with enough control to flatten it?
And if you can, how much of it is left?

LOL. Mostly when I talk about 'sticks' they are small things. You talk about large planks like they are nothing.

[jim mills]

Wow Steven...that oliver sounds nice. Where is it?

[David Kumm]

That 166 has been for sale for some time. The guys who like old machines tend to be cheap so 4500 for any machine is above the means or wants of many. Also, the byrd head is only considered an upgrade to the old machine guys if the original head is a " clamshell design " so most won't pay for the conversion. I like the old 5" diameter straight knife head but the byrd is OK. The key to to check the tables and bearings. I'm not a fan of sealed as the original were open and oil bath but they may have been replaced with them. If the tables are flat and they will be unless worn in the center area, you should be good. There have been no improvements in jointers for about 75 years so it is all about build and table. Dave

EDIT. There have been a few Byrd jointers on the market and this might not be the one I saw.

[Steven Wayne]

I'm not feeling like the value is there for me... It's a good looking machine from the photos. But, for not much more money I can have a new 16" Minimax combo machine that has a single phase motor. For now, I think I'm going to wire in a Phase-o-matic static converter on the 8" Powermatic's 1.5HP motor..

[Jerrimy Snook]

Just saw this on craigslist. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/tls/5562105968.html

[Andrew Hughes]

That's a awesome looking jointer I wonder how the Byrd head cuts at 4000 rpm head speed.
I wonder if that's the machine the op was looking at.