Jenning vs Irwin

[Mike Holbrook]

Steve, Jim- I agree completely that focusing on skills, such as how to sharpen, might be the better way to spend time in these classes vs rushing to finish projects. My guess is the places that host these classes put pressure on those doing the teaching to finish projects. They want those pictures of students standing next to finished chairs to use for advertising.

Many students decide what tools they want to buy in these classes, so they lean heavily on the tools that the instructors bring. Galbert sells tools, Langsner sells tools. I suspect a significant reason for some people to do these classes is to sell tools. Galbert has a book on building chairs, Langsner has books and videos. Schwarz is Lost Art Press, which sells books & videos...most people who teach these classes make money from them in multiple ways. Places like Highland Woodworking sponsors these classes not just for the money from the classes, but because the students buy tools and supplies from them for the courses.

[Bill Houghton]

I think Tom meant the lead screw. Coarse lead screws will pull the bit through soft wood faster, but can stall/pull out in hard wood.

[Mike Holbrook]

I have read a good many posts on these pages suggesting Jennings bits but I have also read other posts/blogs/articles in which experienced woodworkers have preferred Irwin bits for all types of wood.

For a woodworker working at his own pace, cooling & sharpening bits as needed, I suspect Jennings or Irwin bits will work fine.

The advantage of the Wood Owl bits is they are manufactured to very tight tolerances of metal that stays cool better and just lasts longer. I have not tried to sharpen any of my Wood Owl bits yet as they do not need it, so I am not sure how easy or hard they may be to sharpen. As compared to buying new Jennings or Irwin type bits the Wood Owls are cheap, probably not much more than what I have paid for used Jennings bits.

Japanese hand saws just about wiped out all other types of saws for years because people figured out they cut fast, lasted a long time without sharpening and were comparatively cheap. If my Wood Owls prove hard to sharpen I will toss them and buy more, like I do with my Japanese Silky saw blades or Iwasaki rasps...

I'm not sure how the metal is treated for some of these Japanese tools but so far I have not been able to wear out: Japanese Turbo Cut saw blades, Iwasaki rasps, Shinto rasps, Wood Owl drill bits or my Silky pruning/woodworking saws. The Silky pruning/woodworking saw blades I have replaced were because I got too rough and broke a tooth or two or the tip of the saw blade. I believe my experience is typical.