Ping Pong Table Design Question

[Cooper Anderson]

I'm a new woodworker. I've built a couple of basic furniture pieces, including a simple dining table.
Next, I want to build a hardwood table to hold a ping pong table top like the one in these pictures.

My concern is that ping pong tables are huge compared to your average dining table. Actually 9 feet x 5 feet.

The attached picture closely resembles what I want to build. Can anyone tell me how the apron / leg joinery is done from the picture?

It looks like the long and short aprons are just sitting on top of the legs (M&T), but that can't be right, can it? I like the clean lines, but not sure how to do it. The top is made from baltic birch plywood. Not sure how to make the base...Anyone?


Table Joinery.jpgCO15HOL_H258_p174x175.jpg

[Dave Richards]

Very likely the legs are made something like this. There's probably some additional structure that I didn't sketch in but it could easily be developed.
Capture.JPG

[Cooper Anderson]

Thanks, but I can't see the sketch?

[Cooper Anderson]

Actually, it looks like only the long apron is attached to the legs and the short apron is attached to the long apron? This can't be right.

[Dave Richards]

Were you able to see my sketch finally?

From the photos it looks like both aprons sit on shoulders on the leg and both would be attached to the leg. The aprons might be attached to each other to keep the miter closed.

[Cooper Anderson]

Ok. I see the sketch. Thanks for the drawing. So if the legs are 4X4, then the top of the legs could still be 3X3, if I cut a one inch notch on two sides. Would the legs be strong enough, considering they would be 3X3 where the joint is attached and 4X4 the rest of the way to the floor? This doesn't look too difficult. Is there a better design?

[Dave Richards]

3x3 would still be plenty strong. I think if you want that heavy look, it's a good way to construct the table. You'll need some stringers underneath to support the top and of course there'll be a rabbet on the aprons for the top to set down into. It should be simple enough to work out all the details.

[Cooper Anderson]

Yes. I agree about the rabbet on the aprons. But won't the aprons need to be about 1" taller than the top of the 3X3 portion of the legs so the table top can sit flush on the legs? I really appreciate the help.

[Dave Richards]

Yeah. The legs will be a bit shorter to provide space for the plywood top to sit down in. The top doesn't need to be an inch thick, though. No more than 3/4" will be fine. Reducing the height of the legs by the thickness of the top won't have any appreciable impact on the strength of the joint.

[Larry Browning]

As I know Dave will verify, there are many different ways to build strong table leg joint. I know from playing lots of ping pong as a kid those leg joints will take lots a abuse. I would advise you to do some internet research on the various types of legs joints and how to reinforce them for maximum strength. I would think that in addition to what Dave has suggested, you might want to add a reinforcing board connected at 45* between the front and side aprons. Also maybe add another reinforcing stringer(I don't know what it is called) a few inches below the top apron. I know that would change the look a bit, but it would definitely add strength.

BTW, I really like the look of that. Are you going to purchase the top and build the table around that? If so where are you getting it? I am afraid I would need mine to be able to fold up some way for storage, as I don't have the space to have it set up permanently.

[Cooper Anderson]

I haven't decided whether to build or buy the top. I'm considering buying one from Amazon. Like this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q9YBGE/...ZEJD1DL7&psc=1.

[John Fenn]

My son and I built a ping pong table together and used a modified version Mathias Wandel's table leg jointery using mortise and tenon and dowels. The table has made it through both my children's teenage years with almost daily use and it's as solid as the first day. Not sure how to post a link but you can find it at woodgears.ca under "building a table". Great family project!

[Cooper Anderson]

Larry,

Thanks for the comments. Very helpful. I'm familiar with the 45 degree brace between the front and side aprons, and I think I'll definitely add those to the table base. I'll also add some cross braces attached to the long aprons under the top to keep the top from warping and maybe keep the 9-foot, long aprons from bowing or cupping.

But I'm not sure what you mean about "adding another reinforcing stringer a few inches below the top apron." What do you mean by the "top apron"? I am concerned about strength. This table is really big.

[Cooper Anderson]

John, I'm going to look into Mathias Wandel's table leg jointery now. Thanks for the advice.

[Larry Browning]

Larry,

But I'm not sure what you mean about "adding another reinforcing stringer a few inches below the top apron." What do you mean by the "top apron"? I am concerned about strength. This table is really big.

I really have a hard time knowing the proper terminology for things, but I am trying to describe the top part that attaches to the legs and wraps all the way around the table. It looks to be about 6 inches tall. The playing surface sits on it. I was suggesting you repeat that a few inches below it to add some additional strength. Or maybe you might want to add something closer to the floor. High enough to not interfere with your feet or cleaning underneath. Just some ideas for making it sturdier.