I'm going through that now. I bought a siliconate sealer from concrete sealers usa.
I believe radon seal is a a silicone sealer. Similar concept, but a little different.
I'm going through that now. I bought a siliconate sealer from concrete sealers usa.
I believe radon seal is a a silicone sealer. Similar concept, but a little different.
Another point that I learned the hard way over a very long period of time...
Stacking your lumber on a concrete or dirty floor for that matter will dull your tools. Even if you set a board down on a dirty floor momentarily, the wood will pick up sand on the surface. So even without concern for warping, picking up moisture etc, its a good idea to have a clean surface to stack you lumber on to prevent contamination. Sticker-ing is probably the easiest/quickest solution.
Also, here is an excellent saw bench from one of our fellow neanders... http://www.sawmillcreek.org/album.php?albumid=827
It is extremely sturdy and looks great to boot.
Clear some wall space at the tallest part of your shop. I used the roof peak on the rear wall.
Vertical Lumber Storage 001.jpg . Vertical Lumber Storage 004.jpg . Vertical Lumber Storage 007.jpg
Lumber Storage 2014 (1).jpg . Vertical Lumber Storage add-on (2).jpg . Vertical Lumber Storage add-on (3).jpg
Last edited by glenn bradley; 10-18-2015 at 10:00 AM.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Perhaps I'm the oddball, but I stack mine on horizontal racks without any stickering. The racks are made up of "arms" that support the wood every 16" and I stack the wood no more than 5-6 layers. Most often, it's 2-3 layers per. This is all well dried lumber. Anything that's not fully dry get's snickered until it's dry. I don't store a ton of lumber but I don't have an problems with it. The flat stuff stays flat. Stickers in between layers is probably a good idea, but I've never done it in my racks.
The kiln I often buy from stores dry wood for sale on vertical racks. The wood sits directly on the concrete. The concrete does have a vapor barrier below. I know this because in an odd coincidence, the owner and I were discussing the need for vapor barrier and insulation below the concrete on Friday.
I would love to store my lumber vertically because it is so convenient to sort stock and sort. I don't have the room for it nor do I keep enough stock to need that style storage.
-- Dan Rode
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit." - Aristotle
https://www.tramexmeters.eu/Wood-Moisture-Encounter
Or
You could just moisture test your wood and always KNOW what its moisture content is before you use it and not have to "guess".
-- Dan Rode
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit." - Aristotle
Buy construction lumber to save money but then a $500 moisture meter to check it? Seems counter intuitive.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
Yeah guessing is the way to go!.
Perhaps if I were drying my own wood or buying wood from sources where the MC was more variable I'd feel the need for a moisture meter. BORG lumber is downright wet sometimes but I let that stuff sit for months before building anything. But as Brian said, a $500 meter to check BORG pine seems "counter intuitive."
I'm buying mostly kiln dried wood, often at the source and then it sits for at least a week or three in my shop to acclimate before I start breaking it down. Then, rough sized, it hangs out in the shop for a while. As a result, I don't really need to check the MC.
Moisture meters are a recent invention. What did we do before it's invention?
-- Dan Rode
"We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then, is not an act, but a habit." - Aristotle
This is always a good reality check. :thumbsup:
--
I worked for a few hours to clear out enough floor space in the garage. I placed a plastic sheet down, then cut up some 2x6 to elevate the stack. Then I stacked the barnwood together in 3 columns, and then stickered the BORG 2x6s. I'll try to get a picture this week to show the results.
Anyone have advice on any cleaning I should give this wood before bringing a plane blade to it? Is that a thing?
I have a stiff bristle brush I use on any new wood to sweep away any dirt or contamination. Also, if the wood is questionable I will use a 'roughing in' #4 plane to do a quick cleanup pass before I put my 'good' planes to use.