Thanks to all for the comments.
No, there was no switch for doing this. As I said I might add it at some point and wire it to the VFD.
As I'm in Canada, I got it from http://www.busybeetools.com/categori...sale/Switches/
Thanks to all for the comments.
No, there was no switch for doing this. As I said I might add it at some point and wire it to the VFD.
As I'm in Canada, I got it from http://www.busybeetools.com/categori...sale/Switches/
The seller also just has the wires themselves connected to the VFD, but I like your connectors. Where did you get the wire terminal connectors? Thank-you for the information.
Last edited by Guy Belleman; 07-26-2012 at 11:44 AM.
Very nice install!! I have another 3 phase machine coming this fall. I plan on using a VFD on it, can you explain the red and the black wires that you had attached to the light switch? Are they still attached and if so to what?
Thanks again for the great info.
A bus station is where a bus stops. A train station is where a train stops. My desk is a work station.
You should be able to find terminal connectors in electrical supplies or those who sell trailer wiring stuff (here in Canada I bought it from Princess Auto).
Those two wires are to terminals 3&5 which are for controlling the forward/reverse operation. Terminal 5 is the 12V line which if connected to terminal 3 will start the motor in forward operation (terminal 4 is for reverse).
One note: if this works backward you'd have to swap two of your output lines T1,T2,T3 that goes to the motor (e.g. swap T1 & T2).
Also, the default factory setting for function F3 (described on page 36 of manual) should be changed from 0 to 1 to have the the forward/reverse switch work this way.
Using this latching switch, does the saw turn on if you have the switch in the on position and you loose and regain power? Or did you set set a code to prevent that?
What values did you set your internal braking codes too?
Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.
The VFD can be programmed to what you like. The factory setting is, if there is a power loss less than 2 seconds the saw will automatically restart and there is no interruption basically,
if it is more then it will shut down and it won't restart even if the toggle switch is in ON position. You have to turn it off and then on (to reset the machine).
You can change to other settings as stated in the manual
Hello All .... Since these excellent 24" Italian 600 series bandsaws are much discussed / frequently for sale used cheap , and ... Are the next step up from a trade size machine to industrial series . I hope yall or ( mreza) don't mind me Bumping this thread up again . I have the same saw and am wondering what settings you've saved on your VFD . I looked through archives with no luck , Have you any info saved ? I.e How many RPM are you running the saw at , start ramp up time and electronic blade braking time. I'm also curious if you've fitted a start or emergency stop switch ? Thanks Tomas
I will have to go and check, but I run it at whatever the motor spec said wanted it (50Hz IIRC); as for braking I set it to the minimum amount that the VFD drive allowed. (see page 36 for DC braking parameters and the corresponding pages it refers to). I think the default braking time was 0.5S and I set it to minimum. You can play with F_15 and F_16 to see which setting you like.
Hi all. Good Installation man . But I would like to know if you had a lost in HP by using the VFD
No you don't loose any power by using a VFD. They are not like a rotary phase converter in that way.
mreza, Another, late, thank you for doing this thread. I'll be copying it for a Centauro 600, unless someone has a better idea 2-1/2 years later.
I've been thinking of this as well because my bandsaws 3ph motor is too fast (probably 900rpm instead of 700rpm) and it's a direct drive saw. I have 3ph in my shop so I run it directly, I'd also like the motor breaking ability. And perhaps it could work in a pinch for metal cutting.
But alas it seems far more difficult to find 3ph/400V to 3ph/400V VFD, rather than a 1ph to 3ph 240V model. And the ones I find are way more expensive.
Everyone should also note that you can increase braking time with these units, by adding a larger resistor. (Or just buying the optional TECO braking module, which is basically just a larger resistor.) I think the resistor dissipate heat, created by the dynamic braking. - but don't quote me on that.