Whether it be a lowly #6 small jointer
DE6c.jpg
or an #31 woodie
Jointer plane.jpg
Homemade, or brand new. Lets see the big guys!
Whether it be a lowly #6 small jointer
DE6c.jpg
or an #31 woodie
Jointer plane.jpg
Homemade, or brand new. Lets see the big guys!
You skipped fore planes, so I posted both: From left Stanley #6 (Veritas PM-V11 blade), Blum 17" Fore Plane (Mesquite), Veritas BU Jointer, Purple Heart Jointer I am working on (26.5"). The front handle is from a piece of Ash I harvested from our property. The rear handle is in a nice tight mortise deep in the wood, which gives it the feel of a Razee without the tapered rear section.
IMG_0257-SM.jpg
Last edited by Mike Holbrook; 02-24-2015 at 9:35 AM.
P1020385.jpgP1020387.jpg Here are a couple of 424 Sargents. The first is a type 2 (1891 - 1901), which is missing a fair bit of japanning, but is otherwise pretty good. The second is a 424c Sargent VBM plane (1907 - 1918). I did not need this plane, but the price was right, and the condition is excellent. Most of my planes are Sargents.
Hi Mike, The purple heart jointer hardly looks long enough ; )
In this photo you can see the 30" curly maple jointer I made back in 2012. Silver inlay, overall very fancy. I'm not much of a plane maker but I was happy with this one.
overall.jpg
I did just pick up this broken down, incomplete $3 try plane at an antique store over the weekend. This will be turned into a copy of a carved voorloper / proto reifschaaf (I want a carved front handle but voorloopers typically don't have them and this plane is too short to be a proper reifschaaf). I just need an iron for it.
plane project.jpg
I don't have pictures of my other jointers... take my word for it that I have too many.
Your endgrain is like your bellybutton. Yes, I know you have it. No, I don't want to see it.
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Here's my LN no.7. I love it. I had a type 11 Stanley before. It was a great plane, but the LN is definitely worth it's price tag.
Blood, sweat, and sawdust
My two "try" planes, as the DE6c is my Fore plane
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Newest one, with a new tote from firewood, and
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The #81. One is a single iron, the other isn't. When things get this big, I like them a little little then the cast iron ones..
Admit it Steve- when you started this you were just dying to use the Jacks to Open line!.
My planes are what I refer to Stenzel's Collection of Rust, Antiques, Planes, Iron Relics and Other Niceties. No pictures of most, not worth the electrons.
My #7C was a Craiglist find. When I called to see if it was still available the guy said, "The one I lowered the price on?". Well, of course that must be the one. When I saw it the tote was broken. The iron that he said was really sharp looked like it had been dragged over a bad sidewalk. Still I paid the asked 8 dollars, took my 'new' plane and went about my business (as we would say at work).
Turns out that it had been fettled once and whoever did it knew what they were doing. Since then it had fallen on hard times. I patched the tote with some apple from a cut down tree. Cleaned the rust off the bottom, sharpened it up. The rest of the rust I plan on removing the old fashioned way - by using it.
The cutting board was the first project I did with it. The maple and walnut boards where jointed full length, then cut into pieces for the glue up. Granpa's 80 was also used so it got to come along for the ride.
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-Tom
Ward Master 6, Bailey 6, 6C, & 7, 606, 607, R. Mosley &Son/London 2-1/2" x 22", A. McKenzie/Aberdeen 2-1/2" x 22", and a Steve Knight 2" x 24" (the third of a set...Mike Holbrook has the other two). All are in working order, but the 607 sees the most work...as a shooting plane.
The Keen Kutter #6 corrugated, which is sharp and works great.
The LN #62 Low Angle Jack. No complaints.
The 27-1/2" wood jointer. Blade and wedge are something my father made ... could improve, but I like it the way he left it.
The close up of the blade is of a Weldon blade ... not exactly a Jointer but a jointer with a very large concave radius. Not sure what it would have been used for, and I've never used it. My father amassed a sizable collection of wooden planes ... I keep telling myself I should tune them up and take 'em out for a spin!
Here are a pair of #6s. The one on the left is a type 4, the next is a type 9. A Sargent Transitional Jointer is next. The Stanley #7 is a type 7. Finally there is a pair of 8s. The one on the left is a type 6a. This is one of the types that fell through the cracks. The only foundry marks may be a little pimple or dot. It has the left hand threads on the depth adjusters like all types have after the type 6. The one on the right is an 8c. I call it my most expensive $5 plane. $5 was the original cost, but it came with a broken frog and missing a few parts. It is kind of on the back burner of things to do. You can see by the dust shadow on the back that it has been collecting dust while resting in a corner.
Jointer Planes Top View.jpg
Jointer Planes Elevation.jpg
The #7 is the one featured in my post, Junker to Jointer:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...ker-to-Jointer
jtk
Last edited by Jim Koepke; 02-23-2015 at 8:27 PM. Reason: Junker to Jointer
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
My #8 Awaiting restoration
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My #6 that currently does the job of jointer. Dusty since I had just been running the tablesaw.
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Here are my #6 sized:
Left to right: Shop made Beech stock with Hock O1 iron, type 9 Stanley #6C with Hock O1 iron, Woodriver #6 with Vertias O1 iron.
Shipped today a new Woody from Phillyplanes:
ken
Here's my beech locomotive:
Jointer - front side up.jpg
In use while building my workbench (clearly, not a pure neander shop :-)
Jointer in use.jpg
Alas, no time for a photo.
Stanley No. 8, low knob, on which all the japanning has departed (makes it lighter!). Keen Kutter No. 7, and late model Stanley No. 7 covered with silver paint, even on the frog bedding surface; those two are restorations to be done. Two Stanley No. 6 and a Wards Master No. 6, also in the restoration list.