Help in TS blade selection

[Juan Rivera]

I've been using the Amana Prestige 10" 40T saw blade ($49.95) and it performs beautifully. I believe is the best bang for the money.

[George Moore]

www.carbide.com sells the Everlast blades as well as the FS Tools blades. They are both excellent.

[CPeter James]

I have two WWIIs. One is a 1/8" and one is an thin kerf. I bought the thinn kerf when I had my old saw. They are great. Now the kicker, I also have two blades from Ridge Carbide Tool. These are very underrated. I think they are as good as the WWIIs. I have a 40 tooth on my PM66 and a 80 tooth on my DW 708 slider. As with all "super" blades, they must go back to the manufacturer for sharpening or all bets are off.

http://www.ridgecarbidetool.com/

CPeter

[Ron Jones near Indy]

I have used both, the WWII and Freud. I really like the Freuds--left the rip blade on the TS, combo blade on RAS and CC blade on CMS. Then I got a WWII. Use it on the TS for everything I do. Love that WWII.

[Corey Hallagan]

I have never owned a Forrest blade so I can't comment. I have a LU84 Full Kerf, LU 83 Thin Kerf, Another Freud TK model I can't remember. I am very very happy with my Freud blades. All of them. I also have had excellent service from Freud and they have been happy to answer any question and fix any problems. I have no doubt Forrest is the same way... I just prefer to spend less than that. I buy all Frued router bits when I can and Forstener bits as well. I prefer them. Good luck!
Corey
P.S. nice saw!!

[J.R. Rutter]

I find that I rip 95% of the time on my saw. I had a WWII on my saw for years, switching between a 30T 1/8 kerf and 40T 3/32 kerf for sharpening. These are nice blades, but then I started working with Jatoba for kitchens. The high ATB grind is vulnerable to chipping teeth tips off in very hard woods. In fact, I tried a Matsushita rip blade and destroyed it within 3 rips in Jatoba - shattered carbide on multiple teeth. Anyways, the Forrest blades now have chipped teeth and I haven't yet sent them to get repaired. I then tried a Systimatic glue line rip, which is fine, but very aggressive, with a tendency to grab offrips and throw them back to you. Now I've got the Freud glue line rip, which cuts every bit as smooth as the Forrest on rip cuts. It has very little side clkearance on the teeth (like the Forrest), so needs cleaning more often, but this combined with the anti-kickback gullets makes it much more comfortable feeling...

[Kevin Post]

I've used both Freud and Forrest blades. I like the Freud blades but I LOVE the WWII.

[t peterson]

Folks, I cannot begin to thank you all for your invaluable comments and expertise. I've printed the thread and will refer to it again on many of the important decisions I'll need to make as I enter the next phase of my life as a retired woodworker. Just as important (to me) is that no one called me out for a stupid question. Great forum, I plan to visit often and hopefully, from time to time, make a contribution. Again, thanks. TP

[Allen Bookout]

Tom,

I agree with you.

I am relative new also but really feel at home here. I have never seen someone say "Boy-----that was a dumb question". Makes you feel good when you know that you are not going to be attacked but only offered help. I think that is why so many people jumped in and donated to save the forum.

You sound like "our kind of guy". Come back soon.

Allen

[Greg Narozniak]

I have Both of the main blades in question that I run on my unisaw. a Forrest WW2 and a LU84 and I can honestly say that the cut different cannot be seen by me. I have a Freud rip blade that runs great wehen ripping a lot of hardwood but when the combo blade is on there I cannot tell the difference between the WW2 and the LU84.

If I was going to buy another combo blade it would be a freud and I would pocket the extra $50 (Well Actually I would buy more tools with it )

Greg