I don't have any problems with stalls,although occasionaly it will groan a little bit if I run a piece through that twists from probably not being dried properly.I am running a 5h.p. powermatic with a 1 h.p. feeder,along with the super grip wheels(the blue wheels) from western roller,and a very aggresive 20 tooth Amana rip blade.I would probably try a riving knife if I had one,but I don't remember if it came with one or not,I bought the saw new probably 17 yrs. ago,too long for me to remember.If it did come with one,it probably got pitched a long time ago after a cleaning frenzy.Does your riving knife ever get in the way of the wheels?My blade just misses the wheels,the back 2 wheels straddle the blade with no extra room.I would consider putting a knife on if I knew it wouldn't get in the way.
Never when ripping.
When making cuts that cause the guard to be more a danger than a safety.2. Do you operate it using only a splitter/riving knife?
Whenever possible.3. Do you operate it with BOTH a guard and splitter/riving knife?
My only 'others' come into play for operations other than ripping.4. Other.
Don't step back from safety just because someone who's been "doin' this since forever" says they never use a guard or whatever other irresponsible things one might hear. The contractor saw guards of yesteryear that offered more danger than safety setup a generation of woodworkers who don't use guards. Twenty years ago the products that we have for the home / amateur shop today were not available. Use your most valuable safety device; your brain. I have a sign in my shop that says "None of these machines have a brain, You'll have to use yours".
Guards, push blocks, feather boards, proper speeds, proper cutters for the task and all sorts of things are available without undue trouble or inconvenience. You want inconvenience, try opening your beer with only your ring finger and a pinky. ;-)
Last edited by glenn bradley; 10-29-2014 at 6:04 PM.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Im running about the same specs, 5hp w/1hp feeder (3 wheel) and the yellow wester roller wheels. I run a 24T full kerf rip (its a 23 cause one is blown and last go my sharpener didnt braze a new one on). I have three different knives for my saw and with the smaller of the three and a 10" blade I can still straddle with the knife and the blade between 2 and 3 but its close. I just run a tooth an a half through the work.
Its really no matter if your not having problems. Im usually running #1 common or better and my supplier is the drier and they seem to do a pretty good job but I still get the occasional pinch/spread. I wish I'd gotten the blue wheels but I went with their recommendation.
Thanks guys. This has been illuminating for me.
As of post #64, looks like we have this breakdown:
* About 23 of us said #3 - use both a guard and splitter/riving knife when possible
* About 15 of us said #1 - use niether (includes me, today)
* About 15 of us said #2 - use a splitter/riving knife
* And a couple of us seemed to vote for #4 - other.
This doesnt add to 64 because some people had multiple posts, didnt seem to vote, etc.
Fred
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
“If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”
Jack, CUT IT OUT! Your tool porn is KILLING me. Every time I see those pictures I have lust in my heart . . . . . Guess I'm getting old, as I would rather look at your machines than scantily clad young "ladies". I never knew what I was missing until I started watching your videos. Any chance you need a shop assistant to polish those Wadkins?
No guard and no splitter. To date the only thing I have been considering adding is some sort of over head dust collection but haven't pursued it yet as any mounting system to hold it just gets in the way.
#3, I use a Shark Guard whenever the rip allows it. I get nervous whenever I have a narrow rip and I have to remove the SharkGuard. I do have a splitter for those situations. I got bonked in the gut once, and that is enough. And I use a long hold down, never a push "stick".
Get a SharkGuard and you will never look back. Very easy to take on and off. Unless you tilt the blade 45 degrees on a G1023. Which I almost never do.
Last edited by Ole Anderson; 10-29-2014 at 9:19 PM.
NOW you tell me...
all the guys that say the crown is in the way can you tell me whats its in the way of? your hand?
20120213.jpg
jack
English machines
3. MJ splitter and Excalibur overarm guard on my Unisaw except for dados. Used none for 35 years but finally got tired of sawdust in my face.
That Wadkin guard is way harder to find than the saw. Wish someone would make the bracket and pipe assembly with a newer style head with DC ( but have some design to it ). Don't know if there is enough market because it would cost money. Dave
Guards only really get in the way when they're poorly-designed.
I was a #1 when I still had my old Grizzly cabinet saw. Now, with the Altendorf, I'm definitely a #3.
I feel so much safer with the slider and a proper riving knife and overhead guard.