When do you shoot endgrain?

[Sean Hughto]

If you use a power mitre saw, why not just gang cut them on the saw and be done with it?

[John Lanciani]

If you use a power mitre saw, why not just gang cut them on the saw and be done with it?

Because the point of the exercise was only to demonstrate shooting two boards at the same time since someone said it was all but impossible to do. Normally I'd just use the slider on my T.S. if I had a bunch to do since it is by far the fastest way for me to produce multiples. It's nice to have more than one way to do something, and for me woodworking is as much about the journey as it is the destination.

[Chris Fournier]

If you use a power mitre saw, why not just gang cut them on the saw and be done with it?

Say that makes sense; quick, efficient and good enough for the task at hand!
Perhaps I'll start a thread on using stops on saws! Video to follow.

[Sean Hughto]

My experience has been that once I find a preferred method of doing some task in the shop - whether for efficiency, result, or enjoyment - theoretical alternative means to the same end fall away or stay theoretical.

[Chris Fournier]

So, are we now to see a video of Charlie eating a hat?

The whole hat and a real hat?

And those of us who do not have a table saw, chop saw or other tailed companions of the high speed world will just have to muddle through or muscle through with our old fashioned silent helpers like shooting boards.

jtk

Is your shop truly sans tails Jim? When I spent a truly self-indulgent day in the shop, which is rare, the tailed equipment usually stands quietly while I use handtools. These days are too rare for my liking.

[Jim Koepke]

Is your shop truly sans tails Jim? When I spent a truly self-indulgent day in the shop, which is rare, the tailed equipment usually stands quietly while I use handtools. These days are too rare for my liking.

My tailed tools that actually get used are a band saw, lathe and drill press.

There are a few others, but they do not get used very often, router, circular saw, jig saw, hand drill, belt and orbital sander.

Of all of them, the bandsaw tends to get the most use.

jtk

[Sean Hughto]

John, is this shooting stacked boards something that is really part of your drawer making process, or are you just trying to establish that such a thing would be possible? And, more to the point, what is the advantage of this procedure over the myriad other possible ways to accomplish this basic task of making two boards square and the same length?

[Joe Leigh]

John, is this shooting stacked boards something that is really part of your drawer making process, or are you just trying to establish that such a thing would be possible? And, more to the point, what is the advantage of this procedure over the myriad other possible ways to accomplish this basic task of making two boards square and the same length?

I think this is precisely what Charlie is alluding to.

And Charlie I have to say, normally I look forward to your posts. I enjoy your writing style and it's obvious that you have a wealth of woodworking knowledge. However, your recent posts have had a definite combative and belligerent tone. Seems as though you are more interested in belittling others than you are in sharing or educating. Not cool.

[Mark Dorman]

In case everybody forgot what started this.

"The recent thread about the very nice LN shooting plane, makes me wonder. I have a shootingboard, but almost never use it. When I use it I get my Stanley #6 which works allright in this job. But I tend to think planing with the board in a vice, with a Stanley #4, working down to a knife line, works better. You can skew the plane in all directions, you use the whole width of the blade, so it doesn't dull so quickly. And I think I don't need the absolute precision a shooting board can give very often.


Mortice and tenon? Dovetails? Simple tables with exposed endgrain? No need for a shooting board in any of these. Only with miters I can understand you want such a thing, but I think a miterclamp works even better. You can again use a normal benchplane on that one."

i appreciate Kees starting the thread. A few years ago when I started hand tool only my layout and sawing ability where poor. In an effort to increase quality I soon built a shooting board to compensate for lack of proficientcy; as my layout and sawing ability improve I use the shooting board less. What I realize though on my current project is I use it more than I need and have begun to use the shoulder vice and planing to a line more. Then along comes this thread and makes me think; I appreciate that. Now I'm really looking at where it's needed and that helps me grow as a woodworker. Economy of movment is a good thing in my book.

P.S. I don't feed trolls.

[Pat Barry]

John, thanks for posting the pictures of your shooting board method. I am working on duplicating it (of course it will be for a right hander and will have to make do with a 'rust recovery' plane.) I don't have anything large that's got a low angle however. Do you clamp the boards to the fence when you shoot? Or is that just done by holding the board down? Thanks again.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Folks,

I will remind everyone to read the Terms Of Service and request you pay particular attention to the portion where it indicates civil friendly attitudes will prevail. Personal attacks are not allowed at SMC and people who continue with such actions often lose their ability to post here.

For the record, if any member wishes to report a post, click on the little triangle in the lower left corner of the offending post. This will send emails to the appropriate Moderators and open a thread in the Moderator's Forum. If for some reason the appropriate Moderators aren't available, then other Moderators will see the thread and handle the situation.

Now to determine whether I want to edit out the childish behavior so readily prevalent in this thread and reopen it or just let the thread go into the archive closed or move it out of public view to the Moderator's Forum.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Personal attacks and insults are not permitted at SMC and when you counterattack someone, you have violated the TOSs just as much as the person who initiated the behavior.

Please folks.....keep it civil...keep it friendly........ I just wasted nearly an hour of my woodworking time to cleanup posts that were childish in nature. You can disagree with someone without intentionally insulting someone. Again...continued behavior could result in people losing their posting ability at SMC.

Please!

[Mark Roderick]

No, to my mind the marking process would introduce an unnecessary possibility for error. I would stand the two ends next to each other, or butt them both against a flat surface, and feel with my fingertips whether they are the same length. If not, I would take a shaving or two from one of them and check again.

[Jim Koepke]

"The recent thread about the very nice LN shooting plane, makes me wonder. I have a shootingboard, but almost never use it. When I use it I get my Stanley #6 which works allright in this job.

If my shoulder wasn't messed up in a cycling accident a #6 would likely be my most used plane on the shooting board.

As with many tools, a shooting board is a specialized piece of equipment. Even though my shooting board is used a lot there isn't a need for the #51/52 set up in my shop. If someone was doing a lot of molding work or making picture frames the cost benefit might make sense.

For making square stock with little thought or effort for me a shooting board makes it quick work. The end of a piece can have the saw marks removed or put in square quicker than the time it takes to knife a line around a piece.

Do you clamp the boards to the fence when you shoot? Or is that just done by holding the board down?

Part of the use of a shooting board involves being able to move the work piece toward the plane. So the work is pressed against the fence and then when the plane is pulled completely back it is held in place while the work is registered against the plane's toe. Then another forward stroke of the plane is made. This is repeated until a shaving is taken of the full end grain or if a line is involved it is met.

jtk