cutting thick stock

[Lee Schierer]

I put my machinist square against the blade and it is 90* to the table. Used my combo square to measure distance front to back of blade from the miter slot. Same with the fence. Everything looks good.

Invest in a dial indicator and mount it to your miter gauge. You'll be amazed at how much better your saw aligns with the dial indicator. A blade that is out of alignment less than .010" will burn wood. Seeing .010" on a combination square rule is very hard to do.

I also agree that you are using the wrong blade. Use a dedicated 24 tooth rip blade. Probably a thin kerf would work best for your 1-3/4 Hp saw.

[Joe Skinner]

Thanks for all the replies. Found time to get back in the shop today and did my remaining cuts on the bandsaw. Not as smooth of a cut, but felt much better through the blade and gave me an excuse to use the new Veritas low angle jack. Got some nice shavings on my feet and stock is the right size.

[joe milana]

Ditto on the ripper...


Erik Loza
Minimax USA

Erik, is that parallel cutting device a MiniMax product?

[Erik Loza]

Erik, is that parallel cutting device a MiniMax product?

Joe, that's a Jointech "Clincher" fence, mounted to one of our steel accessory tables for the slider. I believe Jointech is now defunct but possibly Incra or someone else makes a similar product.

Best,

Erik Loza
Minimax USA

[Chip Lindley]

a Freud 30T glue line rip blade should solve your problems. But if the thick maple stock has a tendency to bow and close around the blade, no blade will be much help. But, I have ripped 3" green ash with such a blade with perfect results!

[Kent A Bathurst]

To each his own, of course.......I have a WW II 30t that I will use in the 1-1/2" +/- range, and a WW II 20t that I use in the 2" range. HM and QSWO.