that is about what I remember, I was thinking about the highway mowing machines, when they finish mowing the bush-hog are raise to close between 70-90 degrees, almost vertical, I tend to forget about the ferment grass
that is about what I remember, I was thinking about the highway mowing machines, when they finish mowing the bush-hog are raise to close between 70-90 degrees, almost vertical, I tend to forget about the ferment grass
I suppose I should sharpen my brush hog blades too.
I remove mower blades before that I would use a wood block to block the blade so the nut could be remove and replace, the same upset [ that are suppose to say setup ]will hold the blade for a sharping
which name are correct "bush-hog or brush-hog ?
Technically rotary cutter. Brush or bush? Hog is a brand name.
I put the blades in the vise and hit them with the angle grinder.
________
Ron
"Individual commitment to a group effort--that is what makes a team work, a company work, a society work, a civilization work."
Vince Lombardi
I just replace them every 3 or 4 years whether they need it or not...
Kind of timely here, since i just pulled mine off yesterday for replacement....but i think this will motivate me to at aleast attempt to go the srarpening routge next time.
I sharpen mine with an angle grinder...I lift the ZTR up with the tractor FEL so I can put the front of it on jack stands, and then lie on the ground and do the blades with the angle grinder, only working on the blade section closest to the front so that I never have much of my arm under the unit. Which reminds me...I need to do this real soon now!
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
This doesn't have to be anything fancy. Use whatever is the easiest. I use the bench grinder because I don't like to waste my time with a file. I balance the blade on my finger tip. When the blade gets too skinny I replace it. Belt sander - sure, but if you have the bench grinder why bother. Just take light passes, eyeball the bevel and put your efforts into something productive. Now, if you are in the running for most beautiful yard, the cover of Home and Gardens, or working at Augusta National then by all means get sophisticated. You don't want those ugly split ends in any of those situations.
Last edited by Pat Barry; 05-14-2012 at 10:25 PM. Reason: added content
I put mine in the vise and use the angle grinder - very fast. Likely best to avoid razor sharp edges as they are more prone to chipping - not saying I fully abide.
Due to the large amount of sand and rocks on my property I have to replace my blades almost every year at around $40 for each change. By the time I change them there isn't much metal left to sharpen.
David B
Jerome S.
The rocks that get mowed are rocks from a neighbors driveway that are pushed on to my property during the Winter by a snow plow. The rocks are hidden from view by grass and most are on a steep bank that is risky. If there was an easy way to remove the rocks without investing in some expensive equipment I would explore it. My snow removal also moves rocks into my lawn area. I rake the areas but I frequently miss a few. My lawn is around 3 acres, what I should do is let the grass grow and cut it with my brush hog couple times a year. The brush hog has much better clearance than the riding mower. Sand probably does more damage than the rocks.
David B
Japanese water stones. Start with 1000g, move up to 32,000g. Ruler trick if the rock chips are too deep!
The Plane Anarchist