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Thread: vendor that sells open path vectors ?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2010
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    vendor that sells open path vectors ?

    Not sure how else to describe what I'm looking for.

    Basically, if you vector cut an image (say from paper) you can completely remove it. You have to go in and edit the image so that there are bridges. I'm wondering if there are any vendors out there that sell pre-bridged or gapped vector images.

    I have been trying to google for such a thing, but I always just end up a regular vector or template website.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    I don't know if you will find the images you are looking for, but do a search for 'stencil'

  3. #3
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    that's a good idea, too .. but I'd add that you want to filter out some things like
    -halloween and -spray -paint . Google is now smarter than we are, and it includes
    things you don't want, even overriding your boolean strings.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the suggestion.. I had tried stencils before, but perhaps I need to fine-tune that.

    And yes, SkyNet.. er.. Google does seem to be over zealous sometimes.

  5. #5
    Stefano, I don't think you will find what you are looking for. There is little in the way of commercial shapes or clipart suitable for laser engraving in the first place. Most of the clipart needs to be reworked for use on a laser because it often has overlapping filled shapes. They look fine for print but you can't use them for lasering as the laser sees the hidden vector lines. So that eliminates 95% of the clipart out there. If you do find some commercial shapes you like, it is very easy to add your own bridges. The number of bridges and the width of the bridge will change depending on material, lens, focus, etc so a "standard" bridge is not realistic. Once you find the shapes you need just add your own bridges to suit your own needs. I find using the eraser tool is the easiest way but other people have their own methods.

  6. #6
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    Try looking at Scroll Saw patterns.
    Mike Mackenzie
    Sales and Service of Universal Laser Systems

  7. #7
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    May 2010
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    I have looked at scroll saw patterns, some are ok, most need work as Richard suggested.

    Totally agree that images would have to be tweaked (easy to do in photoshop, my illustrator skills need work). I was just wondering if I had missed a common resource.

    Stencils and variations there-of seem to be the closest match.

    Thanks!

  8. #8
    Make your own line style. In Corel, enter the Outline properties area, select "edit styles" and make your own line style that has dashes every so often. Save it, and then it's available any time. Then, you can select the objects you want to do that to in mass, select the outline properties and apply your saved style to it. It'll change it all at once and you'll be set.
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  9. #9
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    That's brilliant.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by stefano panusa View Post
    That's brilliant.
    Thanks, I have my moments Sadly, they are few, and far between
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  11. #11
    Stefano, what is the purpose of the bridges? Is is for your own processing or do you send the sheet to the customer that way? Either way someone has to cut the bridges without damaging the item. The more you have, the more chance of a mishap. On some materials it leaves a nasty witness mark where it breaks off. So my objective is always the minimum number of bridges that will do the job. And I prefer to decide myself where to put them. In some cases it may work, but the problem with using a linetype is that you won't be able to control placement.

    Also, some materials like wood need special treatment. A bridge that crosses the grain will be much stronger than a bridge with the grain. With thin wood I found that bridges with the grain don't work at all, as they can spontaneously snap even with gentle handling.

    I still think that you need to add your own bridges. Once you have a satisfactory outline adding the bridges would probably take a minute per part maximum.

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