Below are some pictures of a pair of open handled backsaws I recently completed. Both are .020" thick x 12" long 1095 steel. The saw backs are slotted brass.
The Birdseye Maple is 13 PPI rip saw filed, and the Walnut is 14 PPI Crosscut. I built these with a little coarser pitch and thicker plate than some typical dovetail saws because I wanted something for dovetailing/joinery in 4/4 and thicker stock, or when I gang cut dovetails for a carcass etc.
I was inspired to make the saws based on the beautiful work I've seen others post here on SMC. I am a total novice saw maker (but longtime hand saw user) and for others who might be interested in giving it a try I thought it could be helpful to share what I learned in the process. I'm not saying I have any answers, these are just the things I wish I would've known before I started:
1) You can't drill holes in 1095 saw plate steel with regular high-speed steel drill bits. A fairly inexpensive hand punch from HF worked well for me. Be sure to test fit the saw plate to the back, and that to the handle so the saw back doesn't interfere with the punch, if it does be sure to punch your saw plate before you Loctite it to the saw back.
2) It's really hard to drill accurate holes for split nuts and handles without a drill press. I tried with brace/auger bit and electric hand drill with mixed results.
3) For the thinner saw plates (.025"), the split not holes in the handle and the saw plate have to line up exactly. If they are misaligned, tightening the sawnuts can induce tension in the blade that creates a big wave and ruins your day! For me it was easier to punch the holes in the plate slightly oversize (1/4" holes for 3/16" diameter split nuts), and just make sure the saw back fits tightly in the mortice in the handle.
4) LOVE the Gramercy/TFWW split nuts. The little brass, friction fit washer was much easier for me to use than cutting the little mortise for the square shank of a traditional saw nut.
5) Cocobolo sounds like a good idea for handle, but it is really, really hard! Thickness planning the blank down to 7/8" and drilling the holes for the saw nuts was a workout!
6) Last thing -- it was totally worth it! I have a number of refurbished vintage Disston/Spears and Jackson backsaws and they work great, it's just that their saw plates/kerfs are thicker, and for me at least slower and less accurate than the .020" plates/teeth.
I welcome the thoughts and comments of others who know lots more about this than I do. Thanks to the members of the Creek for the inspiration!
Best regards, Mike