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Thread: Who Said glass does not look good laser engraved!

  1. #16
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    I'm not really on the fence, per se, I just qualify the "laser etched glass looks horrible" statement with "if it's done incorrectly".
    Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )

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  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Hintz View Post
    "laser etched glass looks horrible" statement with "if it's done incorrectly".
    Therein lies the rub - I don't feel that there is a way to do it correctly...

  3. #18
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    I just did a shop sample on 8x10 flat glass, a photo of Crosby leaping in the air after scoring the hockey gold.. It came out smooth and PERFECT (I do a LOT of photos, and my personal standards are very high). I will see if I can get a good contrast photo of it tomorrow and post a link to it when I can. This image was done for demonstration purposes only, because it's not my image. I just wanted it in glass for a shop demo, and personal experiment. I know a sandblaster in skilled hands can do amazing things, but I have my doubts if the amount of detail at 600 dpi I have in this photo can be cut into a mask.
    Epilog 24TT(somewhere between 35-45 watts), CorelX4, Photograv(the old one, it works!), HotStamping, Pantograph, Vulcanizer, PolymerPlatemaker, Sandblasting Cabinet, and a 30 year collection of Assorted 'Junque'

    Every time you make a typo, the errorists win

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  4. #19
    We have both laser engravers and sandblast cabinets. Sandblasting the glass has smoother superior finish without a doubt. Creates more depth and dimension also.
    As far as detail, you can laser the masking material on glass and then use sand blaster.
    Lasering on glass is quicker and much easier therefore less expensive process.

  5. #20
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    I also used to think that sandblasting was superior as I have both systems. However the laser is far less trouble and my results these days are very close. As for glasses, the laser is far easier to set up straight lines of text
    than it is to line up a mask, not to mention splitting and overlapping to get the mask to sit flat on a curved glass. Each has it's own merits and the 1000dpi setting on my elderly GCC Mercury is drastically better than 500dpi.
    First choice for me is laser as the profit margin is better (not so much labour)
    Hilton Lister. NZ
    GCC Spirit 60w. Meistergram 912, Gravograph IT, Old Roland Vinyl Cutter, Hand engraving, Retired

  6. #21


    http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink

    This is a glass side pedestal table top that measures almost 18 inches in diameter. The color is a hard enamel slick coat on the under side of the table. The images was reversed and lasered through the color, so the top portion of the glass was still smooth.

    I did this for a friend for his business and it pays every month with people inquiring how it was done and where can I get one.

    I am so glad I could spark a good debate! :-)
    Bill Richardson
    ULS V3.60 50w

  7. The parts turned out nice. I prefer sandblasted over laser. That said most people don;t know the difference. Most customers are happy with lasered glass. One is because of cost, two they don't know the difference unless they are side by side.
    Epilog EXT36 60w, Corel 12, Adobe CS3, ArtCAM Pro 2010, Techno LC4896

  8. Ahhh totally loving that piece! It almost looks like acrylic rather than glass. Amazing job!

  9. #24
    I do both sand etching (our origional business) and laser, the laser will etch detail on glass that sand etching will not, the cheaper the glass the better the result with the laser.Even with photo mask the sand etching has its limitations, blown stencils if the lines are very fine.
    There is a place for both but methods and it is nice to have options.

    Ron
    Accuris 14 30 W, Engravelab 7, CorelDraw X4, Photograv 3, Gravotech 3000 plotter

  10. #25
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    Still trying to find a few spare minutes to photograph that glass piece.. Weird, January was virtually dead up until Monday morning, then everything that would have normally been ordered and done in the first 3 weeks, has suddenly all turned up this week.. But it sure beats sitting around twiddling my thumbs
    Epilog 24TT(somewhere between 35-45 watts), CorelX4, Photograv(the old one, it works!), HotStamping, Pantograph, Vulcanizer, PolymerPlatemaker, Sandblasting Cabinet, and a 30 year collection of Assorted 'Junque'

    Every time you make a typo, the errorists win

    I Have to think outside the box.. I don't fit in it anymore


    Experience is a wonderful thing.
    It enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.


    Every silver lining has a cloud around it




  11. #26
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    Ok .. Finally found some time .. This is the Glass photo I mentioned above..
    It takes up a size of 6 inches x 10 inches on a 8x10 piece of plain 3mm glass
    The glass was placed on a sheet of black anodized and photographed from an angle to give it some contrast. A close up of the face shows the detail on the glass.. The Image after tweaking to my eye, was processed using the generic glass setting on photograv. I have never seen a sandblasted photo that comes close to this amount of detail. If you have one that does, please post it so everyone can get an idea of how the two differ, or compare in rendering images in glass..
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Epilog 24TT(somewhere between 35-45 watts), CorelX4, Photograv(the old one, it works!), HotStamping, Pantograph, Vulcanizer, PolymerPlatemaker, Sandblasting Cabinet, and a 30 year collection of Assorted 'Junque'

    Every time you make a typo, the errorists win

    I Have to think outside the box.. I don't fit in it anymore


    Experience is a wonderful thing.
    It enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.


    Every silver lining has a cloud around it




  12. #27
    Nice, Bill, really nice! What's the old saying.... it's not the tool it's the hand holding it?
    Epilog Mini 18/25w & 35w, Mac and Vaio, Corel x3, typical art toys, airbrush... I'm a Laserhead, my husband is a Neanderthal - go figure

    Red Coin Mah Jong

  13. #28
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    Bill,

    What's the rough size of the section you blew up... looks like in the area of 1"x1", sound about right? For posterity sake...
    Hi-Tec Designs, LLC -- Owner (and self-proclaimed LED guru )

    Trotec 80W Speedy 300 laser w/everything
    CAMaster Stinger CNC (25" x 36" x 5")
    USCutter 24" LaserPoint Vinyl Cutter
    Jet JWBS-18QT-3 18", 3HP bandsaw
    Robust Beauty 25"x52" wood lathe w/everything
    Jet BD-920W 9"x20" metal lathe
    Delta 18-900L 18" drill press

    Flame Polisher (ooooh, FIRE!)
    Freeware: InkScape, Paint.NET, DoubleCAD XT
    Paidware: Wacom Intuos4 (Large), CorelDRAW X5

  14. #29
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    Thanks for the kind words Dee. And Dan, the face size is .5 wide.. I can get a closeup to .8" on my camera so I got as close as I could.. The actual etch is on the other side of the glass..
    Epilog 24TT(somewhere between 35-45 watts), CorelX4, Photograv(the old one, it works!), HotStamping, Pantograph, Vulcanizer, PolymerPlatemaker, Sandblasting Cabinet, and a 30 year collection of Assorted 'Junque'

    Every time you make a typo, the errorists win

    I Have to think outside the box.. I don't fit in it anymore


    Experience is a wonderful thing.
    It enables you to recognize a mistake when you make it again.


    Every silver lining has a cloud around it




  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Cunningham View Post
    Ok .. Finally found some time .. This is the Glass photo I mentioned above..
    It takes up a size of 6 inches x 10 inches on a 8x10 piece of plain 3mm glass
    The glass was placed on a sheet of black anodized and photographed from an angle to give it some contrast. A close up of the face shows the detail on the glass.. The Image after tweaking to my eye, was processed using the generic glass setting on photograv. I have never seen a sandblasted photo that comes close to this amount of detail. If you have one that does, please post it so everyone can get an idea of how the two differ, or compare in rendering images in glass..
    So Bill, are you saying that this is "just glass", no paint before engraving? Any black we see in the photo is showing through from the anodized backdrop sheet? If it were to be displayed or framed, you would have to put it on top of a solid colored background, right?

    Again, it's a beautiful example of what's possible when you prepare your photo correctly.

    cheers, dee
    Epilog Mini 18/25w & 35w, Mac and Vaio, Corel x3, typical art toys, airbrush... I'm a Laserhead, my husband is a Neanderthal - go figure

    Red Coin Mah Jong

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