Gorilla Glue

[David Nelson1]

I'm making steak knives and presentation boxes for Xmas gifts. The knife blanks call for an epoxy or gorilla glue. I bought GG. Reading the bottle it asks that both surfaces be dampened with water, the glue applied and let set for 10 minutes or so.

My question is am I going to be able to postion the staves on the tang or will this set up like a contact cement? I have read most of the post about the foam any other tips would be appreciated.

Dave

[Mort Stevens]

In my opinion Gorilla Glue has no place in woodworking - especially if this is your first project using it - for one thing it's messy, hard to clean off and isn't water proof. I use polyurathane glues like I use construction adheasive; for rough carpentry where no one will ever see it. I think you would be much better off with epoxy.

[David Nelson1]

Ahah, it not being water proof is enough for me. Thanks

[Chris Fournier]

Polyurethane glue is great stuff and compared to epoxy it is much easier to use and clean up. Less toxicity and it costs less. What's not to like?

GG will be cold waterproof.

The foam out or squeeze out is very easy to remove and clean up - easier than PVA. Perhaps in some joinery scenarios the foam is a problem, but likely not for your knife scales.

It does indeed require water as a catalyst. I like to use a spray bottle on "mist" for large surfaces or a damp cloth - not much is needed.

I have a 2' X 3' X 5" European Beech butchers block which I made about 10 years ago in my kitchen. I used polyurethane glue to laminate the beast and there's not one delamination after daily use and it sees a lot of water.

This is certainly a "go to" glue in my shop. There are less expensive brands than GG - Elmers for instance and you can get it at Home Depot.

[Darius Ferlas]

Did you consider Weldbond?

[Gene Thayer]

I've seen a couple of 'shootouts' between different glues, and polyurethane did not fare well compared to PVA glues in wood joinery. Glueing dissimilar materials is poly's forte, but personally I like epoxy better. I think Gorilla Glue is more marketing hype than performance.

[Matthew Hills]

I used gorilla glue for one of my early exterior projects (using glue and screw with lapped joints)

Seemed okay, but I just disassembled that project and I was able to pull the glued joints apart once I removed the screws. I had a little bit of leverage from the length of the parts themselves, but the joints broke right at the glue lines... none of this "wood failed before glue bond" thing.

I'm using Titebond III and a construction adhesive on my current outdoor project... will see how these fare.

I'd be interested in hearing if others got better service out of their GG.

Matt

[Jon McElwain]

In my opinion Gorilla Glue has no place in woodworking - especially if this is your first project using it - for one thing it's messy, hard to clean off and isn't water proof. I use polyurathane glues like I use construction adheasive; for rough carpentry where no one will ever see it. I think you would be much better off with epoxy.

+1

I have stopped trying to use PVA almost all together - woodworking, home repairs, rough shop use, etc. The foam is incredible annoying, the glue fails easily if heavy clamping pressure is not used, it is not waterproof, the expanding foam stains the area surrounding the joint, etc. etc. There are many other products that work as well or better and with less hassle.

[Troy Ahner]

I would be careful of epoxy and what will be used to clean the knives. I have an old knife for butchering and I coated the dilapidated handle and filled in gaps with 5 minute epoxy many years ago. If it gets bleach on it though, the epoxy surface softens.

[johnny means]

I wouldn't use Gorilla Glue to stick a stamp, for fear that my letter would get returned when the postage fell off. The only thing that seems to stick well with it are the glue and it's unearned reputation. BTW it stains your skin.