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Thread: technique for Detail gouge grind

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Southern California
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    495

    technique for Detail gouge grind

    I have a Crown 1/2" PM detail gouge and I'm looking for a technique to grind it.
    I would like to use the Wolverine but, am open to suggestions.
    Any advice?
    Just cut off the parts that don't look like a bowl...

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Mason Michigan
    Posts
    1,949
    A few hours south of Steve Schlumpf

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    495
    Thanks Pete
    Just cut off the parts that don't look like a bowl...

  4. #4
    Larry,

    First off, let me say thanks for the tips and ideas that have been used from your website.

    I use a Doug Thompson 7/16 detail gouge, and the flute is shallower than the flute in the opening of the Drozda youtube. I sharpen mine with the varigrind fixture in the wolverine. I let the gouge stick out about 1/4 inch farther than for bowl gouges. This produces a more acute angle on the gouge, a guess at the angle would be around 40 degrees or a bit more acute at the tip, and as anything with the varigrind, more acute yet on the wings. When resharpening, a touch of a sharpie to the bevel and hand turning the grinder helps fine tune the stickout of the gouge from the varigrind. I also put a double bevel on the gouge by increasing the stickout another 1/4 inch after getting the edge sharp and reducing the primary bevel to about 1/8 to 3/16 inch. I find that I like the more acute angle on the wings, as it lets the gouge get into tighter spots, and make skew like cuts, even sometimes against the grain.

    I do sharpen my other spindle gouges on the platform with a constant bevel angle.

    Later,
    Dale M

  5. #5
    I just use the vari-grind for my 1/2" detail gouge, adjusting the nose angle to match what it came with (use the wingnut for the strut that sits in the v-base), and adjusting the wing angle grind likewise to match (using the cam-lock that moves the v-base to and fro from the wheel). Pretty simple. I use the same stick-out measurement (1 3/4" for me) from gouge nose to jig for all my gouges.

    I do manually grind away the heel of the bevel to get it out of the way from rubbing (similar to what Ellsworth does). Sort of takes the place of a secondary bevel.

    On dial-up. Haven't watched the you-tube.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Southern California
    Posts
    495
    Thanks again.

    I have been using a 40 degree bevel with a fingernail grind on my standard 1/2 spindle gouge. when I picked up the "Detail gouge" I discovered that it had the same flute and diameter as my spindle gouge, just longer Iron and 3" longer handle. the grind was much more acute than I was using.
    I added a secondary bevel to get the heal out of the way and I am playing with the original bevel. It is a bit squirrelly, but it is kind of fun to play with. going back and forth to the 40 degree gouge, I find that the 40 degree is controlled and familiar. I am using the Hosaluk Grind on my spindle gouge. Did not know that until I happened on a page describing it. I may just put the detail gouge to 40 degrees and remove most of the heal to allow it access into small places. We'll see.
    Just cut off the parts that don't look like a bowl...

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