jewlery box How do you do it?

[Louie Ballis]

I just finished the carcass of a 12x 14 x5 1/2 in jewelry box.

I used box joints as the method of joinery (cause I think that there is a certain coolness factor in them).

My question is this: after I dri-fitted the box togeather and cut the rabbits for the top and bottom lids I seperated the top on my bandsaw. I had a slight amount of blade drift, I dont think that I was feeding the box thruogh too fast, is that unavoidable? or would I be better served to seperate the top using the tablesaw?

Which method do you use? I like using the bandsaw due to the thin kerf of the blade. But the table saw is much straighter.

Secondly, does anyone know of a source for drawer liners, necklace hangers, ring posts, etc. that I can buy to line compartments of the Jewlery box?

thanks,

Louie

[glenn bradley]

I use the tablesaw. I cut the narrow sides first. then I tape in a strip that fills the kerfs and cut one long side. I tape a strip into that kerf as well and cut the final side.

Jewelry box fittings can be found at Rockler, Woodcraft or, my favorite, Lee Valley.

[Dan O'Sullivan]

Like Glenn I use the tablesaw with a thin blade. The bandsaw just won't get it straight enough. If you want to build a box in the future and not need the hardware this box might be an alternative.

The lid slides back and forth so there's no hardware other than screws to attach the bottom to the case

dan

[Louie Ballis]

Thanks Dan and Glenn.

Dan that is a simply beautiful box with a sliding lid.

I guess you cut the rabbet for the lid using a router table but how do you make the lid (with a raised panel bit?).

[Lex Boegen]

I also use the table saw, and I cut it twice. I don't like the look of partial fingers on either the lid or the base, so I plan to "waste" two-fingers width of wood to separate the lid and the base. When the hinges are on and the lid closed, the fingers all line up like it's still one piece.

[Louie Ballis]

Thats a great idea Lex.

That is exactly why I dont like using the table saw. I dont like the idea not having uniform joints.

Do you have any noticeable grain pattern diffrences?

[Lee Schierer]

When I split boxes from the lid portion I use the table saw with a thin kerf blade to limit wood loss. I cut the short sides first with the blade about 1/32 short of cutting through the wood at the thinnest point of the cut. Then I raise the blade and cut the two long sides. The final separation is done by hand with a sharp knife to sever the thin strip left on the short sides. Final clean up with a piece of sand paper removes any residue from the short ends.

[Lex Boegen]

Thats a great idea Lex.

That is exactly why I dont like using the table saw. I dont like the idea not having uniform joints.

Do you have any noticeable grain pattern diffrences?

I haven't, but I haven't used any highly figured wood for the sides. It all depends on your wood choices, and if you plan for the waste, you can minimize its effects. You can use a piece of clear plastic and draw the dimensions on it with a Sharpie (marking your waste) and slide it around the wood to view the grain through the "window".

I'll be using box joints more frequently after I get my Incra LS router table fence. I want to make new kitchen and bathroom cabinets, and for the drawers I prefer box joints over half-blind router dovetails. For a lidded box, like a jewelry box, I would choose to use the most highly-figured wood for the top rather than the sides. IMHO, it's more impressive when used in small areas rather than the entire piece.