CA glue and finishing?

[Mark Burge]

Coming off of Gary's post so as not to hyjack, I have tried using CA to keep some pieces from checking, but I have trouble with the finish afterward. I have only tried it once or twice but the CA treated area will be noticeably lighter when I use an oil finish. I know that some of you use CA during the turning processes, so there must be some solution to this issue. Thanks for your insight.

[David Walser]

CA seals the wood and prevents the treated area from accepting stain or oil as well as the rest of the wood. You can either try to protect the wood by sealing the inside of the area you are trying to repair and masking the outside before applying CA glue, or you can try to treat the rest of the wood by sealing it with sanding sealer or lacquer before applying the stain or oil. This second approach is easier than the first, but will affect the final color of your piece.

HTH

[Bill Bolen]

I usually smear a finger tip full of the finish around the area to be repaired. After drying a few minutes then proceed to the CA repair. You will not notice the lighter area after this...Bill..

[Allen Neighbors]

Mark, here's how I do it... but a couple of things first: When I have a crack I need to seal on a form that I am in the process of turning... I turn it to shape, if possible, first. If not possible, I still use the following technique:
I make a "wash", using approx 60-65% Lacquer Thinner, and 35-40% Lacquer. I paint a wet coat on the entire piece, then spin it, while I dry it off with a piece of white Tee Shirt. Then I use the CA as necessary. (I use this same technique on keeping the bark on a Natural Edged piece.) After allowing a while for the CA to cure, I finish turning, and/or sanding the piece as necessary. Sometimes I repeat the whole thing if I open up more cracks or find more. I've found that using this "wash" doesn't change the way an oil finish works on a cured piece of wood. I've used the wash and CA up to the last two or three grits of sandpaper (220/320/400), then re-sand with the last three grits. I've done... shoot, I don't even know how many... and then finish with Danish Oil, and it works like a charm. I can't tell the difference between putting an oil finish on pieces I've 'washed' and pieces I haven't 'washed'.
I believe the Lacquer Wash just seals the wood enough that it doesn't allow the CA to stain the wood, but doesn't seal so much that the Oil Finish won't work right.
Try it one time, on anything you're not worried about. It'll work so well, you'll be using it every time you need to CA a crack.
Al

[Ryan Baker]

That's interesting. I use CA on turnings very frequently, and I have never had a problem with an oil finish as a result. It can be a bit of a pain to clean (sand) the excess off the surface at times. But if you do have some troublesome wood, the previous advise will probably serve you well: put some wax or finish on the surface first to prevent the CA from soaking in there. Or, if the crack is big enough, you could take a different approach and fill it with epoxy, inlace, filler, etc. and make it a feature.

[Mark Burge]

Thanks for the help guys. Sorry for not responding for a while, I posted and then took off out of town. Part of the problem for me may have been not sanding the treated areas well enough after using the CA, but I will give your wash a go too Allen.