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Thread: School Surplus: I bought a project

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Monroe, MI
    Posts
    11,896
    What you have is an original configuration. Personally, I'd keep the AB starter. You might need to change heaters, or even just bypass them if the motor you buy has thermal protection. I'm using the same one on my Parks planer if I ever finish it. The only drawback to it is that it lacks a big stop button you can hit with your knee.

    If they didn't come like yours, they used a toggle switch in a junction box that is behind the plate where your starter mounted. You won't have the front extension piece for that junction box and original switch parts go for big bucks on Ebay. Someone repos the extension piece. You could use a heavy duty light-switch type switch (that's what mine had when I got it) but it lacks that original look.
    Last edited by Matt Meiser; 05-17-2009 at 1:37 PM.


  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    NE Connecticut
    Posts
    695

    Another Unisaw for $300

    Not sure if this will help anyone, but a Unisaw popped up on CL this morning in VT. The guy is asking $300 with a "relatively new motor." Not much detail in the ad, but it looks like it's in reasonable shape for a $300 saw. Couldn't read the label on the thing, but it looks newer than the one the OP bought.

    Here's the link:

    http://burlington.craigslist.org/tls/1174310674.html


  3. maybe you or someone else can fix the existing motor. Nice buy!

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    East Central Illinois
    Posts
    532

    Scrapped machinery

    Scrapped?! Educated idiots!
    Go to Owwm.org and look at the BOYD section. They have spare parts or they can point you in the right direction for a motor. Definitely have the motor and switch checked out before you invest in a new motor.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Porter,TX
    Posts
    1,538

    Uni

    Duane,Matt is correct if you go back w/ a 3hp motor.I was thinking along the lines of a 1 1/2hp motor.I have order a Cutter Hammer switch that looks like the orginal which has the little ball on the end of the switch.It is a double pole double throw,if I am correct in calling it as such.Anyway it will handle 220volt and rated for 20amps,so that leaves the breaker as the protector of the motor.If you do go back with a 3hp motor,do keep the AB starter and use it for S/S.Sorry about getting the hp mix up----Carroll
    Last edited by Carroll Courtney; 05-17-2009 at 9:27 PM.

  6. #21
    Nice grab ... I took a look at that one too and seriously considered it but decided to pass. I just got rid of one of my Uni's so I don't need to be picking up another.
    Definitely have the motor checked out, or I am not too far from ya, bring it over and we can tear into it.
    If it is bad post a WTB ad on OWWM and I am sure you'll find one.
    Keep the AB started, it's a nice one.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Woodbridge, VA
    Posts
    375
    Blog Entries
    3

    I have a the same saw.

    I have the same unisaw, I think mine is a 1962. I love it.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    N.W. Missouri
    Posts
    1,564
    Hi everyone, new to the forum. I looked at one of those at an auction not long ago. It was 3 phase. Had I bought it, I would have cut the welds to the mount off of the motor with 4-1/2 angle grinder and welded them to a single phase motor. It would require stitch welding with cooling time to prevent damage to the windings.

    John

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Woodbridge, VA
    Posts
    375
    Blog Entries
    3
    Search the forums here on tablesaw motors and phase. In most cases it would be easier to just buy a phase converter instead of changing motors. Thats what I did.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Portsmouth, VA
    Posts
    476
    Nice find. I agree that the motor may not be the original. I would suggest you run that saw all the way out to 45 degrees and back and make sure the motor clears the edge of the cabinet. That was the reason they had the rounded end motors, to clear the cabinet on a full swing.

    A three phase motor is tough to burn out, so maybe it was never powered up afterward and somebody just assumed. A VFD can run that motor for about 2-300 or you can look for a replacement for about the same dollars. Finding an original single phase bullet style motor will set you back about 300 bucks if you are lucky enough to find one. But if the saw clears with the one that is in there then maybe you can get away with a newer leeson or baldor version.

  11. #26

    Thank you

    Thank you all for your great comments and advice.

    I'll dig deeper before making a decision about the motor. You've opened up more options than I had considered.

    Sawmill Creek Rocks!

    Thanks.
    Duane McGuire

  12. #27
    Shane: Thanks for letting me know you are close by! I'll send you a PM with my phone number. Since you are close and more experienced than I in this area, I'd like to talk.

    Thanks.
    Duane McGuire

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