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Thread: Titebond Glue Bottle Stopper Blues

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Iowa
    Posts
    231
    I don't understand why anyone would buy tricky gadgets for $ to preserve their glue investment when simple storage will solve their glue curing problem. My post above is nearly without any cost. (My wife also thought the little bottle condoms were cute, but didn't see any use for them ....) Stan's comment was sure funny!

    I don't have any problem any more with glue drying in my bottles since I changed my storage method at nearly no cost.

    I often take glue from a storage bottle and put it into a roller dispenser and use it that way. What I don't use in the roller bottle, I put back in the storage bottle and keep for next time. I'd rather buy glue to use for woodworking instead of buying bottle tricks to not impress the LOML.
    Kev

  2. #17
    At least you can't lose the caps like you get with Lepages glues. Don't matter that they're red either!
    You also have the problem of the glue drying out inside the caps and on bottle threads.
    I'll take the Titebond any day.
    Last edited by Brian Penning; 04-16-2009 at 11:05 AM.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    NE Ohio
    Posts
    7,074
    Hello,
    Thanks for the tip on the Glue-bots!

    I don't have any problems with Titebond II, but they would sure be handy for my caulk.
    "Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill McDermott View Post
    Am I the only one who has to use pliers to open the tops on Titebond Original bottles? (regular 16 oz. consumer package)

    It seems most of their products have the same tongue that slips up into the slot when the cap is pressed down to close. It must work for other folks. The goop that dries on the tip seals things up and I have a devil of a time getting it open without first scraping and cleaning and then grabbing a pair of pliers.
    I thought I was the one who wrote the SOP using pliers to open these bottles!

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Northern Michigan
    Posts
    5,044
    For thirty years I pulled the loose top off of glue bottles with my teeth so I only needed one hand to apply glue. I can't open these new bottles with my teeth. I went out and bought up all of the old bottles with the loose cap I could find, but my supply is dwindling. They are always plugged and will not lay down a nice flat line of glue. What idiot comes up with these ideas? Certianly not a woodworker.

    NOT AN IMPROVEMENT! I wrote the companys, but did not get a reply from either.

  6. #21
    The Titebond II Extend is a thinner consistency. After using it, I set the bottle upright on the bench, with the cap OPEN. After a few minutes, all the glue in the cap/dispenser area has run back into the bottle, and the cap can be sealed then without incurring the problems posted earlier in this thread.

    One of the worst versions for this type of problem is their Cold Press Veneer Glue. Brand new quart bottles come with a solidified plug of glue in the cap...it has to be pried out before the first use.

  7. #22
    I've been refilling the same TB II pint bottle for about 5 years and I usually don't need the pliers unless I don't close it all the way. It's still a pretty hard pull though and if I had arthritis, it would be very difficult and I'd be looking for an alternative.
    * * * * * * * *
    Mark Patoka
    Stafford, VA
    * * * * * * * *

  8. #23

    Great, I'm sure to be cursed now.

    Well, up until now, I had never had a problem with the titebond caps unless it was self-inflicted (saw something shiny and got distracted, had to go open a jar or something, left it open overnight). Just give it a firm pop, and scrape the tip clean with my thumbnail. I've used Titebond 1, 2, 3 wth similar results.

    I'm certain that after reading this thread, I will never again be able to open one without the use of a pair of pliers, die grinder, hydraulic press, etc.

    Maybe it's a leverage issue. I'm 6'3" 250#, so you may need to stand on an appropriately sized block and wear a fat suit to get similar results. Good luck!

    Where can I find a hydraulic press....

  9. #24
    You can avoid this by wiping the tip clean after use. Open and close a few times to make sure it's clean.

    That being said, by the time I put the bottle down, I'm frantically trying to clamp things together, and wiping the bottle is the last thing I think about. Truth be told, 1/2 the time I forget to even CLOSE the bottle.

    So you are not alone. The only diff is that I don't use pliers, I use my teeth and just spit out the crust. Gross? I like to TASTE my work!

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    San Francisco, CA
    Posts
    10,338

  11. #26
    I rarely have a problem with the "goop" clogging my Titebond tops... but I did have an incident this past weekend with TBIII.

    I got a clog! Nothing was dried up, the cap opened fine, everything looked great. But the glue came out so slow it was unusable. I took the cap off and used my water hose to clean out the cap, which took quite a bit of effort (and I ended up a bit wet ).

    It sure worked a lot better after that.
    Paul Fitzgerald
    Mid-South Woodworker


  12. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Hampton Roads, Virginia
    Posts
    894
    Sometimes when I'm out I buy bottled water and when I do I always try to find the pop-up sports cap type. Between these, squeeze mustard bottles and such I generally have a few disposable squeeze bottles with caps.

    When a cap gets to be to much of a PITA, I toss the cap and replace it. Most of the water bottles seem to have the same thread. Otherwise I transfer the contents to a new-used bottle.

    The only downside is these caps don't have the flat profile that most glue bottle caps have. I don't miss it much.
    RD

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,708
    Blog Entries
    1

    Try this

    Here's a way to lessen glue bottle problems. Before turning your glue bottle upside down to dispense glue, squeeze out some or all of the air in the bottle depending upon how full (or empty) your bottle is. Apply your glue and flip the bottle right side up. Allow the bottle to sit on the bench for a few minutes. The suction of the bottle trying to return to its full dimensions will suck the glue out of the nozzle and into the bottle. Once the bottle has relaxed. Push down the cap and wipe off any exposed glue.

    Or try the Murhpy's law approach. Lay the glue bottle on its side on your work that is going to be stained. With out a doubt the glue will miracuously soften and run out onto the finished piece.
    Last edited by Lee Schierer; 04-16-2009 at 1:50 PM.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    SF Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    15,332
    Hmmm, interesting reading about issues and non-issues with glue bottle.

    Overall, I don't really have any issus with the TB bottles myself.

    As the bottles get low, I will turn them upside down (I store them upside down in another slightly large container...usually the large salsa container available at Safeway...god, I love their salsa...hence I have LOTS of their containers! ) so that they dispense more easily.

    As most do, I will glue something, close the cap when done dispensing, and then wipe the tip right on my "shop jeans". Next time I will just open it, spend 10 s with my thumbnail to clear dried glue, and go for it.

    Occasionally, I will have to take a tip off and rip it all apart and soak it in hot water to clean it out but that is pretty rare.
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Port Orchard WA
    Posts
    435
    Joe,
    Regarding cleanup of the glue "bulb" dispenser from Mcfeely's. The regular brass tips don't require cleaning unless you have exchanged them out for a different tip. Then, just like the rubber roller, a simple wash with water does the trick. Each tip, except for the roller of course, has an attached tip cover. Mine came with a fine tip, a volume tip, a biscuit tip (holes on the sides of the narrow tip), and a dowel tip (round with holes on the sides). The rubber bulb is nice as you don't have to wait as long for glue to flow down to the tip, and you have excellent control when you need it.
    I baulked at spending decent money for a "glue bottle" at first, but found that it was money well spent, and I wish I had this long ago.

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