I am building my first set of cabinets that will have inset doors. The question I have is do I have to build a stop for the door to rest against when colsed?
I am building my first set of cabinets that will have inset doors. The question I have is do I have to build a stop for the door to rest against when colsed?
No you don't have to, but I have seen cabinets where the bottom was left proud of the faceframe by a 1/2" to act as a stop and self closing euro style hinges were used. A magnetic catch is simple and widly used as well.
Depending on the hinge you use, if you don't have the magnetic catch (or some other kind) the door may swing back open on it's own. But I really like the idea of using the cabinets bottom as a stop. Even so, I just used the catches when I built mine.
I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be. (Merle Haggard)
Thanks for the info. I am using concealled european hinges so they will stay closed. My problem is when the door closes the hinge does not stop exactly at 90 degrees. It wants to come against a stop such as normally happens when you have an overlay door. Has anyone used the Blumotion for doors in this application? I like the idea of the soft close.
Yes, I've used self-closing cup hinges for inset doors. They're designed to close a little bit more than flush, to ensure they close firmly against a cabinet. That is, you should provide a door stop of some sort. With the self-closing version, the stop doesn't need to provide the latching function. It just needs to stop the door.
Even with Blumotion, the door makes a clunk if it closes against wood. I still use rubber bumpers.
Depends on what kind of hinges you use. For the Blum Euro hinges I use, they "over close" slightly as Jamie speaks about, so I put in stops and felt or plastic pads. (And I just love Blumotion)
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For smaller doors such as cabinet doors you can use one free swing hing and one self close hinge. This will give a more gentle close. You have to use some sort of a stop with the Euro hinges.
As for the deck being raised above the FF, I don't like to do this. If the door is slightly warped/twisted there will be no way to fake out of it using the 3 way motion of the Euro hinge. If you can make a perfectly flat door, you can do this.
You have to use some sort of stop with ANY door to prevent over travel and damage the hinges and frame. Passage, entry, cabinet, inset or overlay. EVERY DOOR HAS A STOP OF SOME SORT. On an over lay door the entire face frame or carcass edge is the stop. An inset door must also have a stop, and I do not like to use a plastic magnetic catch as the primary stop for a door.
We typically glue a piece of solid wood edge banding 1 1/4"" X 3/4" to the bottom horizontal member in each cab, rabbited so that 1/4" covers the edge of the plywood, and run the bottom panel 1/4" proud of the bottom of the face frame to act as a continuous stop. This gives you enough material below the bottom panel to attach the frame as well. Fairly simple to do, looks good, works well. I don't actually know how this is handled with inset frame-less cabs.
I have used the blumotion for doors, it takes up a bit of space, sort of chunky to look at, but it works well and gives the doors a nice action. Ditto what Leo noted, not all doors need a blumotion clip for each hinge, and a few of the smaller ones I installed actually work better with just one.
On any cabinet door, (inset or not), if its a real narrow door I'll use just one. I wouldn't bother with mixing the free swinging with a self closing hinge if you're planning on using the soft close attachments.
As a side note, if your margins are super tight, like a 1/16, and the cabinet doesn't have anywhere but the door opening for air to escape, it creates kind of a soft close action. The air acting as the cushion that slows the closing. Also, Blum hardware doesn't like going much less than a 1/8" gap. At least thats what I've found using the regular 120* half/full crank hinges.
For inset doors I usually just add a strip across the top of the opening with a bit rabbeted out to allow for a bumper. I've kicked around raising the bottom deck, but on a large scale like on a kitchen I haven't come up with an economical/easy way to do this.