Member
Can you expand on that. I'm not sure how it would impact the usefulness of the plane. You could put some epoxy in the pits and then lap it flat... I've never done it personally, but I've seen posts from others that have.Originally Posted by Richard Niemiec
btw, I wouldn't do anything with the pitting. I was just throwing it out as an option if it was really bothering him.
Member
Years ago, when our University had an official AudioVisual department, they had a cartoon up on the wall:
Teacher: I need a film.
AV guy: About what?
Teacher: about 45 minutes. That'll use up the class time.
Guest
Well, in my experience "pits" in iron are not all that deep to begin with, and unless they are quite numerous and wide, may not affect use. Putting in any type of filler results in a thin veneer of filler, and it will wear differently than iron, either harder or softer, so you are introducing a materials variable into something you want to be flat and to stay flat. Better to work with the material you have and grind/lap it out so you have a consistent material surface, which in the end will be what it was intended to be.
Besides, it will look like chit. And as far as value, I, nor anyone I know, would buy a #4 with expoxy filler for the reason stated above.
Member
LOL no arguments there...
Well, I don't think this plane really has any significant resale value, so I wouldn't take that into consideration. I doubt the epoxy would wear faster than the iron, but I can't say I know that much about the properties of epoxy.
Personally I wouldn't do anything with any pits. For a couple of reasons
1- If the sole is already "flat" enough, you're more likely to screw up the sole rather than fix it.
2- Is the plane really isn't worth the cost of getting its sole ground? You could probably buy another antique for cheaper and put Grand-dad's plane on the mantel.
cheers
Matt
Member
That was a quote from my Uncle to one his sons that was helping him build a house. He was great for stuff like that.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy" -Red Green
Member
You can save it but IMHO if it takes more than an hour to get sole near flat, thats way to much work and cheaper to buy another and use the parts to make a super plane...
Last edited by Johnny Kleso; 03-17-2009 at 5:40 PM.
aka rarebear - Hand Planes 101 - RexMill - The Resource
[OP]
Member
Well, the plane is cleaning up nicely with the help and suggestions from you guys. I have soaked it, then scrubbed, now the sole is soaking again. All of the other parts cleaned up really nice. I got the paint of the wood with a little simple green and elbow grease. I didn't even hurt the finish on the handle. I have started sharping the blade it is pretty beat up. As far as the sole goes the pitts are very deep. I would say .030 minimum. As far as I know I would have to take it some where and have them grind that out. Unfortunatly I dont have any machinst friends. I am going to check how flat it is tonight after I scrub it somemore and get as much of that black chit out as I can. I will post some more picks latter. Thanks again for all of the help. Is a machine shop the place to check to have the sole ground?
Member
Yes, but, again, you may not need to at all. Have a look at the "pits" at the link below:
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan1.htm#num2c
As long as you've got contact over a sufficient number of points on the sole, and the area around the mouth is flat, the pits are meaningful only aesthetically.
[OP]
Member
Sorry, about the post Bill. I quess what I implied was that I was planning on using the plane this way if at all possible. And it was more a question than anything. Meaning, if the pitts are so deep .030 is the only way to remove them by sending it to a machine shop? I am just about to head out to the shop and see how it turns out.
One other question. This will show you how much of an amature I am. The blade has a cove within the bevel. The cove goes inward. Is this called a hollow bevel? Is this necessary. In order to grind out the nicks this cove will be gone. Is that ok. I am using stones. A sharpening system I use for knives. A gato system. It has a 30 degree setting and that is what matched the bevel on the blade. I will sharpen the back of the blade with scary sharp. Thanks again.
[OP]
Member
Here are the pics of how the plane turned out. I spend along time sharpening last night.
The sole is .005 under in front of and for about 1/2 behind the mouth. That is if I lay the straight edge along the entire sole. If I pull the straight edge off of the pitting in the rear of the plane then the front and the rear of the mouth are only .001 under. Is that OK?
Contributor
The only way to answer your question is to see the shavings the plane can make.
I have one plane that was almost as bad and now works fine.
Here is a link to the thread:
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=70405
Fortunately since then, I have learned how to post pictures better.
jim
Member
Hey Paul,
The only real way to answer that is try it out!
cheers
Matt
Member
Nice job Paul, looks like the pickle juice worked huh.
Get playing with it and make some curls
Matt-
.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy" -Red Green
Member
I would not use it as my No1 smoother but will work fine as a small rougher till you find another donor planes to improve the sole you have...
I would not spend the time trying to get the pits out its much less work to just buy a good plane with broken handle to use as a donor..
aka rarebear - Hand Planes 101 - RexMill - The Resource
[OP]
Member
Matt,
The pickle juice worked great I didn't really have to soak it that long. Just a few others. Other than sharpening that blade it was kind of fun. I will have to look into how to adjust it and use it. I really dont know much about that. I tried it a little bit but only got small shavings not any nice curls.
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