Hello, new here to the site, and have a question for all the hand tool experts. I'm new to the use of hand planes, but needed one to help flatten a table top, so just acquired one. The plane I selected is a 5 1/4 Veritas bench plane, which is a beautiful tool. I've done a fair bit of reading and am pretty sure it is set up correctly. Initially, I just honed the microbevel (35 degrees per the instructions), and it would cut soft wood nicely. However, my table top is white oak, very hard, and of course that means full-width shavings. Initially, I could not get the plane to budge, just wanted to dig into the surface, even with a very minor amount of exposed blade. So the instructions said to add a shallow back-bevel to the blade (I used 10 degrees). Now I can get results, but have to use short, very forceful strokes, with a bit of a "running start"; definitely not a smooth continuous stroke. There are lots of videos out there showing guys making smooth surface planing strokes for several feet without stopping, mostly on walnut or some unknown stock. And this size of plane ("jack plane", "fore plane") is supposed to be good at hogging out wood as opposed to super-thin shavings.

So here are my questions:
1. Should I have been able to make a continuous face shaving out of the box with this plane, with no back bevel ?
2. I realize that the back bevel increases the force necessary by increasing the effective planing angle, but even with that, should I be able to make a continuous stroke on this stock?
3. What do you think is most likely my issue (e.g., blade *still* not quite sharp enough, no camber on blade edge, technique, other?)

I have the chip breaker between 1/32 and 1/16th back, the mouth opening about 1/16, and am taking shavings between .002 and .008. I am fairly strong, or at least that has never been my issue with the use of a tool before.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!