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Thread: Follow-up: Central Shop Vac System

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    Seattle, WA
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    Follow-up: Central Shop Vac System

    Sorry all, photobucket changed its rules on embedding photos on other sites. They want me to pay $400/year, which ain't gonna happen. I killed an hour trying to figure out how to embed photos from google drive and google photos to no avail. So I settled for uploading the files to SMC, which results in super small images. But hopefully you get the idea. Apologies.

    Edit: looks like you can get the bigger images by just clicking on the thumbnails.


    Hi All,

    Way back in December 2014 (wow, time flies!) I posted this thread:

    http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.p...tem&highlight=

    I've finally gotten to the place where I can put some of the things I learned from that thread into practice and wanted to pay the forum back with a follow-up. We bought a new (old) house and I've been working to convert the basement into a shop.

    Since the shop is small, I'm looking to ditch my shop vac/dust deputy cart in favor of a central vacuum system. I'm pretty sick of rolling that cart around... Note that I already have a cyclone with 6" ducting for my dust collection, so this is just for small tools (sanders, routers, TS and RT blade guard, and vacuuming up the shop floor). I definitely understand the difference between high volume low pressure and low volume high pressure... hence why i'm using both systems together.

    What I learned is that most shop vacs are under-powered for a plumbed system. So on the advice I received, I looked into the power units used for home vacuum systems. I decided that I basically wanted to build a scaled-down version of a cyclone dust collector... Meaning, an motor and impeller sitting on top of a dust deputy.

    I learned that the type of motor and impeller I needed is called a "tangential bypass motor". This is essentially the same concept as the big motor/impeller units on a cyclone dust collector. The impeller is sealed off from the motor, so the motor uses the ambient air in the room for cooling (kind of like the "totally enclosed, fan cooled" (aka TEFC) motors on dust collectors). Shop vacs use the vacuum air for cooling, which is why it has to pull the dusty air through a filter before the motor. That approach doesn't work for this kind of system, which is why you end up with a bulky cart when you adapt your shop vac for use with a cyclone. Nothing wrong with that, just a trade off.

    I bought this motor/impeller. It's a 3 stage tangential bypass motor:

    https://www.thinkvacuums.com/ametek-...uum-motor.html


    Please excuse the disaster in the shop- I'm still setting it up, so I have no storage yet.

    Here it is, sitting on top of an unadulterated steel dust deputy:

    IMG_20170805_120731728.jpg

    The pipe on top was in the way, so I cut it off and added the foam gasket that I bought separately for this motor:

    IMG_20170805_123829003.jpg

    IMG_20170805_124522749.jpg


    Then I added some threaded rod to hold it together:

    IMG_20170805_143308153.jpg


    Those with a keen eye will notice that the rotation directions of the cyclone and the impeller are opposite. This isn't ideal, and I was bummed out when I realized it. But when I fired it up for a test and felt the terrifying suction, I realized that it is going to work out just fine. haha. It pulls my skin hard enough for it to be moderately painful. In fact, this might be too much suction for my ROS, so I'll likely have to leave the blast gates half open.

    I still have to install it and plumb the lines, so maybe I'll update this thread when I get around to it.

    Anyway, hope this helps somebody somewhere at some point.
    Last edited by Peter Aeschliman; 08-06-2017 at 1:32 PM.

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