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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Colby, Washington. Just across the Puget Sound from Seattle, near Blake Island.
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    Polishing Lacquer

    Robert Baccus and I had a dialogue on another thread about this [http://www.sawmillcreek.org/newreply...703&noquote=1] and I thought it was worthy of a separate discussion.

    I have used lacquer for years on turned projects as well as my casework. As with cabinet shops, I like it because it dries very quickly (helps in a dusty environment, and my shop is very dusty), can be rubbed out (again, with dust around) and it is a very hard finish. Another advantage is that colors and tints are available in rattle cans, making blending and accents easier. Properly applied to about 6-10 coats, it can be glassy smooth.

    So what about polishing?

    As Robert pointed out, you need to be sure you have plenty of build and that it's well-cured before subjecting it to a polishing process. After multiple coats have dried for a week, I wet sand to 400 and then apply McGwier's Medium Cut auto polish, rubbing it with an extra white diamond buffing wheel (linen?) I purchased from Beall. I use fairly low speed, about 900-1000. The results have usually been good, but occasionally I blow through and have to start over.

    But I wonder: should I switch to lambswool? Should my speed be adjusted? I never painted cars, so this is unknown territory for me.
    Last edited by Russell Neyman; 03-25-2014 at 9:00 AM.

    Russell Neyman
    .


    Writer - Woodworker - Historian
    Instructor: The Woodturning Experience
    Puget Sound, Washington State


    "Outside of a dog, there's nothing better than a good book; inside of a dog it's too dark to read."

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