Preparing moulding stock

[Brad Shipton]

Drew, that is the same book I have. I have made all the mouldings/window trim work and the door trim for a portion of the house. I am sanding and finishing now then up it goes. The profile drawings and a typical window trim drawing are attached.

http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...indow_trim.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...FE_APR3_08.jpg
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...FE_APR3_08.jpg

Once the trim is up, then it is back to passage door building.
http://i272.photobucket.com/albums/j...DSC01023-1.jpg

Brad

[James Suzda]

How close in width do you rip?

Can you explain in more detail your ripping procedures including how you get your first edge straight line ripped?

Thanks for the help!

Are you asking me?
I've got a 16' long straight metal straight edge that is screwed to a 16' long 1/2 x 8 inch wide laminated piece of plywood. I have a saddle that holds my circle saw so it will travel down the straight edge without any deviation side to side, and the blade skims the edge of the plywood.
I position the edge of the plywood where I want to rip and make the cut.
I found this method is so much easier and requires less room than trying to straight line rip on a table saw.
I think I've got pictures someplace in the postings of my ripping jig.

[J.R. Rutter]

probably will I am still interested in hearing more plus how people go about getting that first straight edge

Can't beat one of these for speed and ease of use unless you have the power for a dip chain gang saw. I put off buying one for far too long - the payback is fast if you do a lot of straight line ripping. I've seen similar saws on the used market for as "little" as $5K.

http://www.nas.com/~harmonic/NewShop...0rip%20saw.jpg

Does the Woodmaster gang rip setup work well to get straight edges?

[Per Swenson]

Drew,

We have a woodmaster 718 and its made us a ton of money.

Every single stick of lumber in the bar below was roughsawn mahogany

Every piece went through the woodmaster.

Bar rail included.

I straighten every board with the GCSS in the picture after that.

Per

[Drew Sanderson]

Brad,

Would you be willing to post a larger version of typ_window_trim.jpg Great information on that graphic... just too few pixels. Those doors are awesome. That too is my plan... someday... a long time from now!

Per Swenson,

Your work is great inspiration to what can be done with the woodmaster. I have been second guessing my decision by reading forum posting of people who complain about the setup. my only guess is that these people (unlike me) have a large shop and every tool available. For me, I dont have a lot of space so the 4 in 1 save me money and space. It seems like everytime I get into a hobby I always end up making money with the skills. Maybe I too someday I will make as you say, "a ton of money".

Anyone,

Well I purchased the Eurekazone EZ Smart Guide 114" Package to help get my straight edge. I saw the guide that James Suzda mentioned and on that same post was praise for their smart guide. I only have a small table saw so the system makes a lot of sense especially since a few of you have suggested to use a straight edge and a circular saw.

This is a great thread.... I am really learning a lot!

[Per Swenson]

Drew,

The woodmaster is not a automatic tool and there is a learning curve.

It tales awhile for it to become intuitive.

As with anything though, once you wrap your mind around it

and come up a system of your own, it rocks.

Oh, and thanks.

Pper

[Brad Shipton]

I will email you the pdf file.

Not sure if anyone mentioned, but the Straight Line Rip/Glue Line Rip or Gang Rip saws are power hogs. All I have seen (except for logosol version) require 3ph and are usually around 15 - 25hp and need at least 3000cfm DC. Logosol does make a smaller planer/rip machine that looks interesting. The old Diehl's Rip saws are cheap and their newer ones have not changed much since the 50's, but be careful when it comes to the chains.

The setup it sounds like you are going for is more along the lines of the table saw/jig or Festool type arrangement.

Brad

[J.R. Rutter]

The most economical SLR I have seen is a 10 HP. They have a very efficient DC hood, so 1000 CFM is plenty. They are definitely a better fit for a larger shop. But by combining the variable width rip capability of the table saw with straight line capability, they are super fast and can easily handle a variety of rips, like optimizing wider planks for panel glue-ups.

[Drew Sanderson]

Has anyone rigged up feather boards on their woodmaster? Have any pics?
I am concerned about keeping the straight edge against the guide when gang ripping.

Brad,

Yes, I think setup I have chosen is more appropriate for my space and budget.

Thank you very much for the pdf! What software did you draw it with?

Did you have knives made for everything or did you just use router bits (perhaps on router table or shaper) for some of the pieces?

Where did you get your knives made?

[Joe Von Kaenel]

Folks,

This is a little off the original topic, but, I wanted to start making custom molding with my Woodmaster 712. In Northeast Ohio, most contractors and handymen say people don't want to spend extra money for custom moldings, they just want stuff from the big box stores.
How did you get people to understand that custom molding is better quality and worth the higher cost? Thanks

Joe

[Drew Sanderson]

This somehow got lost:

Has anyone rigged up feather boards on their woodmaster? Have any pics?
I am concerned about keeping the straight edge against the guide when gang ripping.

Brad,

Yes, I think setup I have chosen is more appropriate for my space and budget.

Thank you very much for the pdf! What software did you draw it with?

Did you have knives made for everything or did you just use router bits (perhaps on router table or shaper) for some of the pieces?

Where did you get your knives made?

[David Freed]

I had thought about using a variation of a featherboard, but if you have random width lumber you would have to be adjusting it for different width boards, and that takes time. That is why I went with the small powerfeeders. They hold the boards against the in and out feed fences with no adjusting.

[Drew Sanderson]

can you show these powerfeeders you speak of?

[David Freed]

can you show these powerfeeders you speak of?

Here it is for sale on the internet. There are lots of places that sell it.

http://www.internationaltool.com/woo.../DEL36865.html

On my Woodmaster.

http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery...bum=1609&pos=1
http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery...bum=1609&pos=4
http://www.forestryforum.com/gallery...bum=1609&pos=3

[Brad Shipton]

Drew, been away for a while.

I use Autocad.

I used a 4hp, 1 1/4" dia spindle shaper for all of the profiles with a Steff 2034 power feeder, but many have used routers too. I have a multi function cutter from Garniga that I used to ease the edges. The custom profiles were used in an insert head from Garniga also. The knives are 5/16" thick corrogated back blades cut by Weinig in the US. They make moulders (4 - 8head machines to mass produce mouldings at incredible speeds). Some of the tools I used are a little more than many hobbiest's use, so beware, the tooling I am mentioning is expensive. It might not be what you are looking for.

Brad