do you hate cleaning rust form cast iron tops? so do I. here is what i do that is quick and easy. Now i know some use there ROS with Scotch brite but with the Angle grinder you will not believe how fast this is.
do you hate cleaning rust form cast iron tops? so do I. here is what i do that is quick and easy. Now i know some use there ROS with Scotch brite but with the Angle grinder you will not believe how fast this is.
Last edited by jack forsberg; 11-26-2014 at 2:55 PM.
jack
English machines
Make sure the wire brush doesn't snag your sweatshirt!
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"The older we get, the fewer things seem worth waiting in line for."
Will Rogers
Oooh man... I had a kid working for me one time that grabbed a Metabo 6" electronic grinder (read one that runs on 90v and keeps the other 30 in reserve and applies more power under load-amp draw which means you cant bog it down) that had a 6" knotted cup wheel on it. These grinders have an on/off switch rather than a paddle (which wish they didnt because if you lose hold of it its on even if you let go). Anyway, he grabbed it and kicked it on and was goofing around and the wheel hooked the belly of is T-shirt (he was ample in the belly which didnt help) and I saw it coming. I started running for the cord and thankfully he was a brute and sucked his gut in, and pulled the grinder away from his body. I just got to the cord in time and kicked it out of the wall.
If that wheel had made contact with his belly it would have been a majorly ugly scene. Sends chills up my spine just thinking about it.
i agree them knotted wheels can draw blood. The one i am using is soft wire but its best not to to get it caught in your shirt DAMHIKT
jack
English machines
It would be safer to purchase the Scotch Brite pads for an angle grinder and skip the wire brush.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
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Jack, I use a product by Skyco called Ospho. I have mostly SCM and they use that lightly fluted machine tops [don't know the proper term] so its hard to use abrasives on them. I recently bought a Unitronix shaper that has that same surface and was in bad shape from sitting in a damp polebarn. So I picked up this stuff, laid rags on the top and soaked them so it would stay wet. In about three hours I picked them up and the top looked like it had just been surfaced. Its a rapid oxidizer, acid based. I use it on all my tops now when life happens.
I put it in plastic containers and drop parts in and a little while later they look like new. Supposedly eats the rust but not the good metal, not sure I believe that so I don't leave anything in there longer than necessary. I used it recently on an antique bed with some sort of intricate cast white metal feet that had corroded badly, left it for about 4 hours and they were ready for paint. Cool stuff.
Larry
jack
English machines
I ran a smaller 10' Hypro for awhile. Neat machine but it was like watching paint dry once you got it set up.
Please help support the Creek.
"The older we get, the fewer things seem worth waiting in line for."
Will Rogers
I do but he should be squirtin' some black oil on it. It makes one heck of a cloud!
Please help support the Creek.
"The older we get, the fewer things seem worth waiting in line for."
Will Rogers
Thanks for that Jack! I keep a twisted wire cup on one of my 15 amp old Milwaukee side grinders, and I'll sure put that to use with it now too. For those worried about safety, the big side grinder has two handles on it, and you wouldn't run it so close to your body as a 4-1/2 anyway. I have another one that I keep a 9" grinding wheel on for sharpening mower blades.
Larry, Thanks for that tip too. I'm going looking for some right now.
I agree. I have scotch pads in the shop all the time. The wire wheel is a good option. No safety issues. Id rather keep the money in my pocket
Last edited by Mark Bolton; 11-27-2014 at 6:54 AM.
I just don't keep my tables in that good condition, my tops have developed a patina that is kind of dark, sanded it until it felt smooth and then treated with wax. This patina helps somewhat in preventing further oxidation.