Questions about Delta contractor saws.

[chris yount]

I am in the market for a used table saw and I am supposed to go look at a Delta limited edition simillar to the one in the picture.I am familiar with the basic mechanical setup on these saws .I grew up usng my dads Craftsman.
I have never used a Delta before.Are there any problems that are inherant to these saws in general that I should look for?Any weakness or flaws that can be brought out with use?
I know delta has a good reputation for quality tools and parts are available which is part of my consideration.
thanks,
Chris

[Gilbert Vega]

I have the exact same saw that I bought in mid 2003and it has worked without any problems. I did buy a 10 gauge extension cable since I was having problems tripping the shop circuit using a 12 gauge extension. The only other problem I've had recently is with the switch. The switch somehow loosens up in the bracket and keeps one from stopping the saw. I just pull the cover, push in the switch and it works fine. I'm thinking about using superglue to hold the switch in place.

[James Waters]

I had a saw similar to this one that I recently sold after upgrading to a unisaw. While it certianly does not have the power or weight of the full size cabinet saws I was very impressed. Had I not came across the deal I did I would still be using it.

The saw was very accurate and the fence system (the T-2) held its settings well also. I switched to a thin kerf quality blade and that did seem to improve it's performance greatly. I made several pieces of furniture with that saw and cut hardwoods up to 2" thick without a great deal of trouble. Again, the thin kerf blade makes a big difference.

I think they are a good saw for the money but also keep your eyes open for used cabinet saws. I'm not sure what price range that saw you are looking at is in but there have been several used unisaws and such around in the $600-$800 range. It is a good few hunderd more to spend if you have it and it will likely be the last saw you will ever buy. There is an element of luck involved and being at the right place at the right time. The unisaw I picked up was a 1979 model in pretty good shape with the 96" Bies fence and a custom made table the saw sits in. I can rip a full sheet of plywood on either side of the blade of needed. I was fortunate to have the room to use it but I was happy for $500. All I did was repaint the outside to make it look like almost new.

While I was very happy with the contractor saw I, like many others, got the itch to move to a bigger saw. I was fortunate to have a coworker who was interested in my old saw and really broke about even on it.

My advice is just to look around and make sure there is nothing else out there on craigslist, etc. The contractor saw will perform well if that is what you are after but the cabinet saws are a definate step up if you can swing it and can find a deal.

[scott spencer]

Hi Chris - That saw has a pretty good track record, and sports a great fence. As with any tool, it'll only be as good as the setup and quality of the blade. One thing to watch for on most contractor saws in general that use that type of trunnion design, is to be sure the connecting rods aren't twisted. It's fixable even if they are, but is worth looking at when setting up the saw. Put a flat plate (like a pain of glass across the two connecting rods and see if the plate sits flat or rocks.

contractorsawunderpinnings.jpg

[chris yount]

Thanks for the replies,
I really dont have the space to dedicate to a cabinet saw right now I need the extra mobility the contractor offers. I ran across a pretty good deal on the saw if it pans out.I think it will meet my needs well.I just want to make sure I know what to look for when I get there.

[James Waters]

I think you will be happy with this saw. Just follow other advice you will get here with allignment and the trunion issues, invest in a decent blade and cut away. The difference in mine of thin kerf versus full kerf was amazing.

The saw always held all of it's adjustment well. I checked everything before I delivered it after I sold it and it was still dead on and I had moved it to my sisters house back and forth twice. They really are a good machine.

If you have found a good deal on the saw that makes it even better!!!!!!!

[Ray Newman]

Bring a square, straight edge, some scraps, & have the seller make a few rip & cross cut test cuts. If he/she will not, it would raise a flag.

I've seen reports from a few guys who bought equipment, brought it home, fired it up, & found "problems"....

[Larry Edgerton]

How it cuts now is not of much concern. Most people, even many professionals, will not take the time it takes and tune a tablesaw properly. I have had several Delta contractor saws over the years, and still do.

Is that one that is pictured a "Motorized" or does it have a seperate induction motor that is removable? If it is motorized, don't buy it! There is a Home Depot grade of saw that is useless, and no matter what you do it will always be junk.

http://www.cpowoodworking.com/table_saws/36-980.html

You want to make sure it is a varient of this model. Once tuned these will cut perfectly and stay in tune if you treat them with a little care.

One change I make on mine that makes a huge difference is I replace the pulleys with Brownings, and a segmented belt. It smooths up the cut by getting rid of vibration. Highland woodworking has some precision pulleys and segmented belts.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/i...arch=GO&Page=1

Have fun, and be careful. Take my word for it, you are better off with all of your fingers.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I've had mine now for over two years without problem one...love Delta table saws. The only thing that still throws me is the right tilt. I'll be changing it out soon for a left tilt.

[Matt Roth]

I use the same saw with a Unifence. I've been very happy with the accuracy and quality of this saw. I've only run into a few small shortcomings that would be resolved with a larger/more expensive cabinet saw: smoother adjustment wheels (no biggie) and perhaps a tiny bit more power; although I could probably get a little more energy out of mine by converting to 220. The only time I've ever seen it think about slowing down was when ripping a piece of 8/4 hard maple. I probably could have done different things with different blades, but I'm sure a Unisaw wouldn't have broke a sweat. All that said, I'm still pretty convinced that this saw is still a better tool than I'm a woodworker. If I was building my shop again, I'd get my Delta contractor saw again and use any extra cash to go straight to an 8" jointer!

[Fred Belknap]

Chris: I have a Delta contractor saw stored in my barn, can't sell it. It isn't the same model that you have the picture of but is quite similar. It has stamped wings. The problem I have with the saw is the week trunnions. On this particular saw it will not stay aligned. It has good power and cuts good but if the blade is tilted it will throw the blade out of alignment with the miter slot. As a matter of fact it you get a grip on the motor and flex it back and fort the blade will shift with it. The trunnions are to weak. I bought the saw new in 2002 and replace the fence with a T-2. I haven't been able to sell it because I feel it is important to explain to buyers the problems that I have had with it. It was used pretty hard mostly for ripping 2" material. It seems lots of people like them but thought I would put in a word of caution. Couple of years ago I purchased a Griz 1023SL and it has worked like a dream. Tried to sell the Delta for $200 and couldn't so I decided to set it up in the shop to make straight cuts on small stuff as needed. That worked great till I needed the room it was taking so it got put out to pasture. I will keep it for the motor and maybe a boat anchor.

[Jason Whitaker]

I just bought the same basic saw (newest model) and am thrilled with it. It is replacing a craftsman direct dirve and I could not believe the performance gains. Took a bit of time to dial it in, but it was worth every second. I also switched it to 220, which at least in my mind made a little difference too.


The fit and finish of the parts was great and it really has decent power (with a thin kerf forrest WWII) to cut through fairly thick stock. I was cutting some 7/4 hard maple without any problem, burning, slowing of the blade whatsoever. As someone else mentioned, the belt upgrade is a wise move.

happy woodworking

[chris yount]

Thanks for the info guys,
Larry I assume you are talking about a direct saw or a universal motor with belt drive.I am going to replace a direct drive bench saw with this so I made sure to ask. Its a universal belt drive saw.
The info About the connecting rods is good to know. I guess they get twisted from abuse or overload applying torque to them.This will then skew the blade.
One thing I was concerned with was bearing wear Are these saws not prone to bearing wear/failure? If not that is good to know.
I was going to take some 5/4 red oak scrap to make rip and cross cuts.That is about the thickest hardwood I use on a consistent basis.If it cuts this ok I know it will meet my needs.